Start straight up from the Gunklandia second (often first) pitch bolted anchor. Climb through some easy ledges to the short but sweet hand crack and into an easy offwidth section. Head out left on the flake and up the short left facing corner to the top.
Jeff Butterfield rates it as 5.9+ in his Acadia climbing guide but I think it is much easier (as long as the crack fits your hands).
Straight up from the Gunklandia bolted belay, look for the left leaning flake on the face above.
Standard rack, a #3 might be helpful for the flake but is in no way necessary.
|By Peter Lewis|
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011
This route is every bit of 5.9. Steep and stout. The crux is the first ten feet (a C4 is nice in the initial off-widthy bit); it sure was easier back in the 80s, when the tree was still there. The hand jams above are wonderful, though. The undercling and finishing crack are much easier than the crux handcrack. Most of Acadia's classics were first done a long time ago, and some of the grades are very "Old School," so be prepared. (The second pitch of nearby Gunklandia, is a prime example of a 5.7 sandbag).