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The crux traverse right, on bad footholds.
This route is between Atomic Gecko and a small recess to the right. The climb is gently overhanging from beginning to end. Climb on good holds past the first few bolts, then make a big reach right (a big wingspan helps). Transfer over into this other crack and make some strenuous liebacking past another bolt before getting a rest. A short section of easier climbing leads to the anchor.
This climb would get more stars if it were longer.
6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap.
By Vlad S
Sep 3, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The reach right at the crux (5th bolt) is HUGE. It's possible to continue up the crack for two more moves and then crimp and sidepull your way over to the right. That way it's not reachy, but felt more like v5/12b. The rest of the climb is pretty mellow.