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Binary Surd 
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Binary Surd 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Rossiter, solo 1988.
Page Views: 196
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 24, 2003
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Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A decent route following the R side of Fo. Wander up the Mallory Cave trail past Red Devil, the Box, angle SW, and head to the third strata of Dinosaur Mt. This lies just L of the relatively-narrow channel/groove capped with a large chockstone between Fo & Fum. Probably not heavily traveled but worth the effort for those in search of a brief (240') flatiron explore. Start approximately 30 feet from the R edge of Fum in a shallow, inviting, L-angling groove with good face holds.

P1. Angle slightly L up this shallow groove. Find a crux about 90' up as you hop up past an angled ledge. Now head up. Continue to a tree at 120' for a belay (optional).

P2. Continue up to a second crux with double sidepulls and good smearing as you shuffle up. This is somewhat reminiscent of the South Platte here. Move slightly R and then continue to the top on easier terrain. Hopefully you'll find a pleasant breeze at the summit.

Descend via a 50' downclimb with a few 4th or low 5th class moves to the slot between Fo & Fum (the next flatiron N). Move N up over a boulder and head for a hole/cave to the Fum-Dum col. Wander down a loose trail back to the base.


Protection 

to #2 camalot with an emphasis on smaller pro/cams.



Photos of Binary Surd Slideshow Add Photo
Weird moves at the top of pitch 1, The Box in the background.
Weird moves at the top of pitch 1, The Box in the ...
John Saccardi follows on the long moderate slab of 'Binary Surd' on the 'Fo' Flatiron. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2005.
John Saccardi follows on the long moderate slab of...
Comments on Binary Surd Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 5, 2003

This is a pretty good route and could probably be done in a single pitch with a 70m rope. With a 60m I got pretty close to the top. The moves did seem unusual for a Flatiron slab route, I actually found a reasable amount of pro too. The base of this route is only a few feet off the Dinosaur Mtn trail ...