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 ADVANCED
The Mission Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Behind The Sun 
Billy 
Billy the Kid 
Challenger 
Eye of the Beholder 
Garrett's Revenge 
Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride) 
Gneiss Route 
Ground Control to Gumby One 
Ride The Snake 
Rocketman 
Three Points of Contact 
Wild Child 
Unsorted Routes:

Billy the Kid 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: D.Mabe and C.Winckler
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 16, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Billy The Kid and Garrett's Revenge from Wall of t...

Description 

  • An extension was added to this route, see Garrett's Revenge for details and updated topo **

Billy the Kid is a 3rd pitch variation to Gniess Roof that starts off the Ashtray Belay on the upper East (i.e. sunny) face of Mission Wall. Climb Gneiss Roof to access the Ashtray (P1 5.11, 12 bolts -- P2 5.9+, 5 bolts ).

P3: From the Ashtray, climb up and left onto a sloping ledge, and over the boulder problem crux roof at the 2nd bolt (difficult clip). The right-leaning roof crux is powerful, crimpy, and hard to read. The difficulty eases immensely after the third bolt. Cruise up the face, pass some huecos, and belay on a ramp (Metolious hangers). Before the second-to-last bolt is an optional nut placement (#7 stopper) and before the last bolt is optional cam for the handcrack (#2 Camalot), 95 feet.

P4: The 'Bush Exit' - 30 feet of class five climbing, spot of 5.6, gains the Surette Ledge and 2 bolt belay. A few TCUs or large stoppers may protect this pitch.

Descent: From Surette Ledge, traverse around the corner to the right and rappel the Gneiss Route. Two double rope rappels or three rappels with a 70m get you to ground.


Protection 

8 bolts and 2 optional pro placements: #2 or #3 Camalot, #7 stopper or green Alien. Bolt anchors for all belays. Bring a few nuts for the 'Bush Exit' pitch, or finish on Garrett's Revenge.



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