Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arc of a Diver T 
Arch T 
Arch Direct T 
Baby T 
Billy Shears T 
Bloody Bush T 
Bloody Mary T 
City Lights T 
Crusty Waffles T 
Drunkard's Delight T 
Easy Overhang T 
Fetus T 
Frog's Head T 
Jean T 
Kama Sutra T,TR 
Maria T 
Maria Direct T 
Maria Redirect T,TR 
Morning After T 
Night Fall T 
Pas de Deux T 
Patty Duke T 
Precarious Perch T 
Rock and Brew T 
Rusty Trifle T 
Scungilli T 
Sixish T 
Size Matters T 
Son of Easy O T 
Sultana T 
Sundown T 
Trusty Rifle T 
Twisted Sister T 
Uncle Rudy T 
Wrist T 

Billy Shears 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ray Dobkin, Joe Ferguson, Max Strumia 1982
Page Views: 574
Submitted By: Dana Bartlett on Nov 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

P1: Move up the right side of the arch (dirty) to the right side of the roof and a good stance. Climb the short crack through the overhang (crux), then go right to a belay/rappel tree or go up to the GT ledge.

P3: From the GT ledge, a good 7+/8 move off the ledge leads to sustained pumpy jug-hauling through a devious notch. The last 25-30' is grassy and not well protected, but it's 5.3 at that point - you can traverse left to whatever gear is on Arch (not much).

Location 

The easiest way to find this if you are not well acquainted with the cliff is to go up the trail that is across from where the Stairmaster meets the carriage road; there is a Mohonk Preserve sign there. At the cliff, turn left and walk 100 feet or so. The Arch is just around the corner from a prominent arete.

Protection 

Standard 'Gunks rack


Comments on Billy Shears Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gunkiemike
May 31, 2010

For me, this route is all about the 3rd pitch from the GT Ledge to the anchor bolts atop Arch/Ribs.