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Billy Goat Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bridwell Bolt Route S,TR 
Cummed On S 
Permanent Erection S,TR 
Unknown aka Cock rock T,TR 

Billy Goat Rock  


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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Oct 12, 2003
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Description 

Billy Goat Rock is another sandstone rock with a mixture of toprope and sport climbs with bouldering on the lower portion of the rock. All the climbs are pretty close to vertical, but the bouldering gets pretty overhung.

The bolting on this 40 foot rock is pretty inconsistant. Some routes have nothing but 3/8" bolts, but a few rusty 1/4" bolts are still vital for some of the routes. So be aware of what you're getting into.

All topropes can be set up by hiking up and left around the rock, and most routes have 3 hangers up top.

Getting There 

From the main castle rock parking lot, take the trail that leads to the campground. After ~.5 miles of downhill hiking the trail crosses a bridge then forks. The left fork continues to the waterfall and the campgrounds and the right fork leads to Goat rock and Billy Goat rock. Take a right and proceed up a fairly gentle hill for another ~.5 mile until you come around a corner and find a very odvious climbing rock about 10 feet off the trail. A wooden fence beside the trail also points at the rock. Its pretty hard to miss. The right-most bolted line is Cummed On (5.11c). Two more lines are on the same face.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.0 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Billy Goat Rock
Billy Goat

Permanent Erection 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  CA : San Francisco Bay : ... : Billy Goat Rock
This is the middle bolted route on Billy Goat Rock. Climb up via easy but pumpy climbing to a bulge with garbage hands and non-existant feet above the second bolt. Continue on via pumpy pockets above to the top anchor, which is over the lip. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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Billy Goat Rock
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