Billy Goat Rock
Billy Goat Rock is another sandstone rock with a mixture of toprope and sport climbs with bouldering on the lower portion of the rock. All the climbs are pretty close to vertical, but the bouldering gets pretty overhung.
The bolting on this 40 foot rock is pretty inconsistant. Some routes have nothing but 3/8" bolts, but a few rusty 1/4" bolts are still vital for some of the routes. So be aware of what you're getting into.
All topropes can be set up by hiking up and left around the rock, and most routes have 3 hangers up top.
From the main castle rock parking lot, take the trail that leads to the campground. After ~.5 miles of downhill hiking the trail crosses a bridge then forks. The left fork continues to the waterfall and the campgrounds and the right fork leads to Goat rock and Billy Goat rock. Take a right and proceed up a fairly gentle hill for another ~.5 mile until you come around a corner and find a very odvious climbing rock about 10 feet off the trail. A wooden fence beside the trail also points at the rock. Its pretty hard to miss. The right-most bolted line is Cummed On (5.11c). Two more lines are on the same face.
Weather station 4.0 miles from here
4 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Billy Goat Rock
Unknown aka Cock rock 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c CA
: San Francisco Bay
: ... : Billy Goat Rock
This is a fun route for beginners and novices as it has many variations at the start. Near vertical with large holds and good feet. Start on the right side and climb the chimney or the left side for easier climbing. The easiest route up is mostly 5.5 or so with a 5.9 move near the top. This climb is in the shade all day....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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