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Tom O. moves up the lower section of Bill's Route,...
This route begins just left of Jefferson Airplane. Follow the left-leaning crack to the prominent roof. Negotiate this (crux) and climb the steep corner and face to a two-bolt anchor.
Same as Jefferson Airplane.
Standard rack, thin wires and tcu's protect the crux.
About 20 feet up doing a travers.
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 8, 2007
Great lead! Stays on you most of the way. The squeeze V-slot is an interesting problem to solve.
|By charlie collins|
Sep 1, 2008
the vslot would be an interesting lead for a 5.8 leader; its pretty awkward or i suck at vslots; hard to tell
|By Joey Wolfe|
Sep 21, 2008
The V-slot, once your back is in, is a no hands rest. So don't let it intimidate you. It is awkward to get into and out of, but just relax and THINK. I thought it was just a touch PG-13 in a couple of places, typical Sunset finish.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009
Better gear out left at crux is bigger and reduces rope drag when extended. Relieved to find it. Heady old school 5.8!
|By Ben Hogan|
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jul 4, 2009
Somehow managed to get a red BD stopper stuck about 3/4 the way up in a hole. Was running on tight schedule and had to leave it, if anyone gets it out and feels like they need to return it :) ... just PM me. Great climb by the way.
From: Asheville, NC
May 27, 2010
v slot would climb easier if the gear was a little better.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
a microstopper protects the slot nicely- a #4 or something like that is bomber.
also, for those folks who are a little spooked by the slot- you dont actually climb it- you face climb up and left, only marginally entering it, but never actually needing to climb it.
a great route!