Bill's Route 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Bill Smith and Steve Jones - 1977 |
| Submitted By: | Danny Inman on May 6, 2007 |
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Tom O. moves up the lower section of Bill's Route,...
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Description This route begins just left of Jefferson Airplane. Follow the left-leaning crack to the prominent roof. Negotiate this (crux) and climb the steep corner and face to a two-bolt anchor.
Location Same as Jefferson Airplane.
Protection Standard rack, thin wires and tcu's protect the crux.
About 20 feet up doing a travers.
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Jul 8, 2007
rating: 5.8+
| Great lead! Stays on you most of the way. The squeeze V-slot is an interesting problem to solve. |
By charlie collins
Sep 1, 2008
| the vslot would be an interesting lead for a 5.8 leader; its pretty awkward or i suck at vslots; hard to tell |
By Joey Wolfe
Sep 21, 2008
rating: 5.8
| The V-slot, once your back is in, is a no hands rest. So don't let it intimidate you. It is awkward to get into and out of, but just relax and THINK. I thought it was just a touch PG-13 in a couple of places, typical Sunset finish. |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009
| Better gear out left at crux is bigger and reduces rope drag when extended. Relieved to find it. Heady old school 5.8! |
By Ben Hogan
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jul 4, 2009
| Somehow managed to get a red BD stopper stuck about 3/4 the way up in a hole. Was running on tight schedule and had to leave it, if anyone gets it out and feels like they need to return it :) ... just PM me. Great climb by the way. |
By cshuey77
From: Asheville, NC
May 27, 2010
| v slot would climb easier if the gear was a little better. |
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 25, 2010
rating: 5.8
| a microstopper protects the slot nicely- a #4 or something like that is bomber.
also, for those folks who are a little spooked by the slot- you dont actually climb it- you face climb up and left, only marginally entering it, but never actually needing to climb it.
a great route! |
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