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 ADVANCED
Five and Dime Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bijou S 
Chump Change T 
Copper Penny T 
Five and Dime T 
Inner Reaches T 
Keystone Corner T 
Mockery S 
Nickel Bag S 
Ride the Lightning T,S 
Whack and Dangle T 

Bijou 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Heather Baer, Jeff Schoen, 1992
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: grk10vq on May 17, 2010

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Description 

Steep and wild climbing up a leaning arete.

Begin climbing edges up a low grade slab to the base of the arete. Using flakes, a pocket, and two long ribs, fight gravity past a few bolts to a handful of positive and negative features near the top. A three inch slot marks the crux, fall back off this and hang on!

Short and pumpy, remember you have heels...

Location 

This is the second route in from the approach trail. It the striking and unmistakable arete between Nickel Bag and Mockery.

Protection 

Six bolts and a two bolt anchor. If needed, it is possible to set a top rope for this by walking in from the top. Use draws as directionals.


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By Osprey Overhang
From: ...
May 17, 2010

This climb is all about fighting the barn door to the left. There are much better climbs on the cliff for sure. If there is a crowd, hop on this one instead of waiting in line.