2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This climb ascends the obvious, and namesake, left-facing dihedral on the Bihedral Wall. The first pitch is supposed to go at 7, while the second pitch is 8. I thought both pitches were a bit on the sandbag side. Little wonder that Rossiter describes this route as "somewhat of a classic".
P1. Ascend the dihedral with good pro all the way up, using face holds on the left where necessary. Traverse left past the bolts on top of Rhodian Shores (slab climb described elsewhere), and continue left and up on nebulous terrain until you reach a spacious ledge. Belay here with less-than-comforting gear (small).
P2. Continue up the obvious, but smaller, left-facing dihedral directly above to the top (8+/9-). While I am hesitant to add an s, good gear is not really available on the second pitch until after the first crux, and the chances of a painful fall at that point are about 100%. Best to be solid at the grade.
Descent: there are now numerous rap points. Two single raps on a 60m or a 50m rope will work if you go to the lowest intermediate chains and then scramble down the final bit to the ground.
This is a fun route but a little spicy on the second pitch. Also, I found it hard to find a good belay anchor at the top, which is a mass of rotten flakes. I went 30 ft farther to a large tree! The latest Rossiter tells you to walk off east, but I think it works out better to go west. You can traverse east back to the base of the climb (passing right under the 12a Edge of Reality).
Odd comment about the gear on P2. I did this route today and found great gear. To avoid rope drag, I placed two small cams out on the face in the first 30 feet or so, also got in a bomber nut before I moved back into the crack. Through the crux I used: #4, #1, #.75 Camalots (in that order). Top is broken and loose and yes, the crux felt a little more like 5.9, but it's splitting hairs. I got a great slingshot belay off the tree and was able to sit on the edge and take in the view. Either take George's advice and go west, or resign yourself to walking all the way down to the Riviera, then on a trail back to the buttress and then scrambling back up to the ledge...not cool. Rack up at the bottom of the buttress or even the car and carry shoes. Nice climb, long waste-o-time descent.
Sorry, two more thoughts: one comment about the gear at the first belay. Without small nuts and cams there would not have been a belay. I placed green and yellow Aliens behind a suspicious flake on the left, and equalized the #2 and #3 BD stoppers on the right. A wide setup but worked great with the double ropes. Second: BEWARE OF LOOSE ROCK!!!. The top of both pitches and the belay ledge are littered with loose rocks.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
A really underappreciated route, a diamond in the rough. A variety of approaches. The easiest is a 4th class gully/corner system has poison ivy as you approach. You can do a number of trad things from left of the Riviera 5.7 or one of the L routes on the Riviera (Lease Agreement/New Lease on Life/Abandonment) and angle L 200' or even a manky long traverse in from above the Riviera. You can definitely find solid gear for 1st pitch if you look. You can definitely find good gear before the crux on the 2nd pitch. Trees are definitely the best anchors on top. This is reminiscent of climbing in the Park.
Shad ONeel- I ended the first pitch at the bolts, placed no gear until the second pitch really began and that worked out swell. Thought it was a really fun route, especially the second pitch. Walked off west with no trouble, since I knew no better.
This looked good from the ground so I thought I'd convince my sportclimbing kid to belay me. Both by now bored with the dinky Riviera we tromped up there. The first few feet were nice but after dragging the rope through clumps of shrubs, poision ivy, and knocking rocks onto a party doing the bolted slab below, I reached a belay rigged on loose flakes more reminnescent of the Eiger. I didn't have a huge rack with me, it's 5.8 right! By the time I hit the crux, the only gear I could get in that odd groove was dangerously below. The rubble on the top could start a landfill, and, for the rest of the summer, I could not convince my kid into any more trad climbs....
I found this climb to be very enjoyable. The second pitch esp. has a nice alpine feel. I agree with most of the comments about the approach and descent....the descent W requires minor downclimbing/butt sliding. I haven't tried the standard (Rossiter) descent...seemed much longer. I agree with Leo concerning the approach. L of Riviera offers a multitude of possibilities.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 19, 2003 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
This climb is a good climb. The first half left me wondering why the route is called "something of a classic" but the second half answered that question. I believe if the entire route were like the second half, that it would be a much sought-after "destination climb." The crack in the second pitch does get a little seepy after a good rain and was wet in a spot or two this past Sunday morning. The route's second half had a few spots with moves that are 'hard for 5.8' and that did not protect that well. If you can keep your cool and not overgrip on barn-door moves, you'll be OK. As well, this route is GREAT done as a single 60m pitch from the ground to the top. If you use longer slings (2' and 1') you can avoid rope drag. Go for it.
Great gear route. I thought both pitches were fun. The rock is much better and more cleanly fractured on the first pitch but the climbing is more interesting on the second.
We belayed at the bolted anchor then ran it out to the good crack on the second pitch (about 50 ft.). It's a trade off; you can either have sight of your leader on the second pitch or you can have a bomber anchor. Not both.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 4, 2003 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Good route. Equal in quality to Bihedral Arete but fully trad. Enjoy.
I was able to create a good anchor about six feet to the left of the large ledge on the top of pitch one. It's moderately hanging but took four strong cam placements in "crack pockets". At least you don't have to be sketched by the gear.
After the first pitch I climbed the cool looking 5.9 crack (Heterohedral) on left wall. It was quite run-out on the face to it at 5.7+ or so, but a couple small cams made the crack above both safe and REALLY fun!
Ranks with Bitty Buttress for good BC 5.8 routes that I know of--safe if you take advantage of all gear placements (from small to 3.5 Camalot or so), but not exactly sewn up. Climbing may feel hard for the grade for those used to modern sport ratings. Do it with B. Arete and Rhodian Shores for good mix of trad, bolts, and mixed at similar grades.
Warning! There is a large horn about to break off midway up the first pitch. I would have removed it but was afraid of killing someone at the Riviera below. When it comes off it will impact at the base of the Bihedral Arete.
By jamandbees From: Nederland, Colorado Jan 20, 2014
Great route. Pitch 1 is super protectable; you can do with or without the #4, but for beginning leaders, they'll definitely find the bigger piece a nice to have.
There are two options for the belay at the top of pitch 1. The first is to make the trad anchor. I've made a couple (I'm a newer trad leader than sport), and I opted for making the trad anchor and made it work nicely, so it's definitely something that you can do without much experience. I used a red Alien, a green Alien, and a #0.75 Camalot with a few double length slings.
The second option is if no one is on the sport route that's immediately to the left of the belay station. There's a bolted sport anchor there. If you're in a rush and no one is approaching that route (it's a 5.10a second pitch of another route), you could just clip in and be done.
I did not notice the big, loose horn that Jay reported in 2008. Could be that it's not there any more, or maybe I got lucky.
Overall, the first pitch is a good, weird little climb, and the second pitch is phenomenal.
By Eric Klammer From: Boulder, CO Jan 24, 2014 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Concerning the gear on P2, both the guidebook and the description on this page seem far off the mark. Before the crux, I was able to place a good #2 Camalot, a red Alien in a finger pocket/slot (cool placement, but difficult to determine how great it was), and last but not least, a bomber #4 Camalot! These, of course, will all be below your toes while pulling the crux, but even a somewhat decent belayer should be able to keep you off the deck should you fall. After the crux, it's fun cruising with good gear to the anchor. Enjoy!