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Suicide Horn Rock
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Bighorn Dihedral T 
Compact Physical T 

Bighorn Dihedral 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gingery, Lechlinski and Bachar 1982
Page Views: 2,628
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Richard Shore following the beautiful corner of th...

Description 

This follows a steep undulating hand crack into a long low-angle dihedral.


Protection 

to 2"



Photos of Bighorn Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
Richard Shore on the Bighorn Dihedral. Photo: Mark Collar
Richard Shore on the Bighorn Dihedral. Photo: Mark...
The crux, entering into the tips crack of the dihedral. Copyright 2003, by Randy V.
The crux, entering into the tips crack of the dihe...
Me at the base
Me at the base
Comments on Bighorn Dihedral Add Comment
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By Randy
Apr 7, 2003
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great climb, but face on right is a bit loose. Needs (and deserves) more ascents. If this were anywhere near a road, it would have climbers lining up to do it. Perhaps the 1.5 hour approach might disuade some, but there is other good climbing in the area.

By tony grice
Jan 5, 2007

Great sunny route. Bring thin nuts and a little sac for the upper runout, grade backs off during the run.
Must do!

By joed
Apr 29, 2010

Placed both a black and blue alien on the upper dihedral.

By fubar
From: Babylon
Dec 5, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Felt hard for the grade, and would probably feel less scary if it got more traffic. Long runouts above black alien and purple c3 sized pro. Save time and energy for the descent, too. Randy--one and a half hours? You must have the approach dialed! It was at least 2 for us.

By Richard Shore
Nov 26, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Contrary to the guide, we found a quick and (relatively) easy descent to climbers left, passing beneath the Compact Physical .11c route. Well worth the "long" approach.

By Tradoholic
Nov 9, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Awkward and hard start leads into perfect dihedral climbing with a healthy run-out. I put in the largest DMM brass-offset and took it 30 feet or so to safety with a few useless micro-nuts in-between. I thought the rock quality was pretty good, crumbly down low but I stuck to climbing in the crack into the dihedral directly.
Long but easy hike, easier than Queen Mountain.
Kudos to Simon for the tag-team ascent!