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Lost Creek Canyon
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Bighorn Buttress 
Crack of Infernity 
Fevered 

Bighorn Buttress 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Nick Nordblom and Jenni Stone, 1987
Page Views: 1,126
Submitted By: J. Thompson on May 3, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Jean Myers follows JAG on pitch 2 of Bighorn Buttr...

Description 

Bighorn Buttress ascend's the obvious varnished buttress located on the tier directly above the Black track buttress.Start near the right hand side of the buttress on top of a small pillar, on a good ledge. start up the face aiming for a short, thin crack leading to a small bush. Above the bush locate a bolt about 20ft up the face. Climb past the bolt and pull the bulge above(you'll be alittle runout), leading to another crack. Pitch 1 is 5.10- Belay at the obvious stance with fixed knots!! Pitch 2 starts up the obvious crack then heads right on the face towards a bolt, you'll want the bolt to be above you on the traverse. Turn the corner of the arete and find another bolt. From here there are 2 option's. Option 1; continue across the obvious varnished face, on very poor(breakable) holds until you reach a bolt(5.11+). Option 2; head straight up the arete until you reach an obvious horizontal hand traverse then climb right to the aforementioned bolt(5.10). From the bolt head up the obvious varnished corner, thru an easier section then up another varnished corner. Belay on the left side of the big ledge below some bush's. Pitch 3 Climb a shallow right facing varnished corner then up a white face, passing a bolt to a 2 bolt anchor(5.9).It is possible and recommended to link pitch's 3&4. Pitch 4 Climb the varnished face past a bolt aiming for the obvious right leaning crack. Continue up the crack to the summit (you'll once again be a little runout) and belay off of fixed gear in the summit boulder (5.10).

To descend rappel off the fixed gear in the summit boulder to the bolt anchor at the top of pitch 3. From the top of pitch 3 rappel to an anchor on a ledge to the right of the route- 2 ropes are needed one 70M will not work. From this anchor rappel to the ledge near the start of the route.


Protection 

Single set of nut's, cam's to 3"



Photos of Bighorn Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Jean Myers nears the end of pitch 2 following JAG on Bighorn Buttress. 11/22/2009
Jean Myers nears the end of pitch 2 following JAG ...
Comments on Bighorn Buttress Add Comment
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By meo
Nov 7, 2006

This route is definitely spicey. The bolts are in or near the cruxes but the condition of them are not the greatest. The rappel from the top is off two fixed pieces and numerous webbing. The next rappel is off two bolts one of which should be replaced. (All the bolts should be replaced). The last rappel is off one bolt and one piton. Still a very enjoyable line with a sweet short approach.

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 27, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13

Sick Climb! Did it Saturday... Not sure where the 10+ comes from, the line is very clearly an 11a with the crux being a traverse up and right from the bolts. The 10D "variation" of climbing the arete straight up and then traversing is just that, a variation, it also seems pointlessly dangerous, the crimpers are protected by the bolt that is, in fact, good. Bad info to say that the credit card crimpers are friable. I'm 230 pounds and those puppies are SOLID! (leaders, protect the corner as high as you can for your second, otherwise it's a scary pendulum, consider back cleaning some gear) The whole route's rock is SO solid it's kind of shocking! Incredible route! Mentally challenging on every pitch with a hero finish! The rap stations up top weren't incredibly condidence inspiring. This purdy route could use new anchors.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 11, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

Pretty awesome route- well worth the effort, and although I'm not sure I'd call it an .11a. the traverse up and right is the only obvious way to go, imho- the lower traverse looked insane. the traverse up and right also takes you directly to the third bolt, where the other way wouldnt.

otherwise, the route was pretty awesome. i felt that the grade was fairly sustained the entire time at the .10/.10+ range with some easier sections here and there. given the pro (or lack thereof), though, i'd say be solid at .11a (or better) before giving this one a go.

if you link the last two pitches, bring doubles of blue, yellow, and orange metolius for ease of mind.

oh, and leave the trail line at the bolts on the last pitch- you can get back to them easily with a single 60m and the rope pull is much easier.

By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Nov 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13

Just did this climb on the 11/22/09. The traverse on P2 is hard. Definantly 11a IMHO. The 4th pitch is a real gem, an exciting finish to what was already an exciting climb. This route is not for the faint of heart.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 6, 2010

@ Jon Obrien.....Those crimpers crunched and broke when I first pulled on them and later stepped on them. 4 years and a few more ascents later maybe they cleaned up abit.
The "Variation" honestly seemed like "the line" to me. Going right on those crimpers seemed a bit contrived. I don't remember it making anything "more dangerous" though.
Either way you do the climb it's pretty damn fun!

josh

By Bob Rotert
Mar 16, 2011

This route does has some very cool, heady, climbing. First pitch is not for the faint of heart. The bold moves over the bulge on the First pitch is definitely heads up climbing. And I didn't like the Star drive bolt below, protecting the run out 5.10 climbing over the bulge,on the first pitch. Your in for a possible long drop on it and if it failed you'd be in for a very long drop.

Second pitch route finding is a bit weird. You can go high or low near the finish around the buttress.

Overall, I thought it was a memorable route with a stellar finish!

By mtnsoceans
From: Ivins, Utah
Mar 22, 2011

I concur with Bob on the serious nature of the first pitch. A great route with a stellar final pitch. Rope drag is an issue on the raps.....

By smassey
From: CO
Apr 29, 2011

As of 4/29/10, the LVCLC with the blessing and support of the ASCA, has replaced all but the crux bolt on this route. Bolts are 3/8x2.25 SS, with one 3/8x3 SS in the bolted anchor. To those who were worrying about that Star-Dryvin, let's just say it took some work to get it out. The remaining bolt will be replaced in the near future. Right now the first anchor does indeed consist of several jammed knots, backed up with a new-looking huge stopper. If one wanted to construct a modern belay anchor, offset nuts and purple metolius size gear would be appropriate. The tat on the top (3 nut) anchor is new. Rope drag is not really an issue on the raps, now.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 2, 2011

Thanks Smassey!

I did the route with Greg Barnes...maybe the best old bolt analyiser(sp?) in the world...he saw it and said it was plenty good...it was a 3/8's star.

Better to have new gear though.

cheers,

josh

By smassey
From: CO
May 5, 2011

Thanks, Josh! Yeah, despite appearances, most of the bolts on this probably would've held a fall or two more. The one set of bolted anchors flexed alarmingly, and were eroding out of their placements, but were pretty solid... Those jammed knots, on the other hand, are bomber...