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Lookin for some practice aid climbin areas

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By iceman777
Aug 16, 2008

Hello all just lookin for any good ideas on some areas where a guy
could practice some aid? I dont want to be on display nor do I want to
have a battan style death march to get there ....

Im lookin to practice some hookin n headin a bolt ladder with a roof
would be nice an hey take it easy on an old fart who climbed during the golden era of the yosemite been on the captain a few times and half dome once just want to get in shape for zion (never climbed sandstone) and yea I know I wont be hookin or headin on sandstone ya de ya de ya.....

Im sometimes in cs and some times in ep but anywhere in the front range would be ok ..

Cheers and thanks

By Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Aug 16, 2008

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/denver_south/castl>>>>>

No bolt ladder, and technically not sandstone. But it is a roof and you aren't on display, easy hike.

By iceman777
Aug 16, 2008

Sounds cool mike thanks for the heads up as for the bolt ladder it's not that important just going to get some more practice with the russian aiders and hauling
Cheers
Roger..

By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Aug 16, 2008
Pitch 7

If you are doing clean aid then I would recommend North table mountain. Just head up the trail and walk to the far end and you're find plenty of nice thin cracks to aid up. Great place for practicing hauling, pendu's, setting up ledges etc.

By Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Aug 16, 2008

There's also an old CMC bolt ladder (A0) at the grocery store wall.

By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Aug 16, 2008

Thanks John,

Hey, for those less familiar with NTM (like me) what is the "far end?" Could you add a little right/left or east/west beta? Also, are there any "known" lines for practicing mildly spicier aid, C2 or 3?

And is there anywhere you'd recommend to brush up on hard nailing, blades, tips, etc. If you'd rather not contribute to such activity, I can appreciate that.

Hi Mike, been a while no chat. You reforming or something?

By Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Aug 16, 2008

Hey Shawn-
I just had a non-climbing roadtrip taking the mom-in-law back to Creston, BC.
So basically just dealing with the resulting PTSD. The twitch is almost gone, and I'm down to only waking up about 4 times a night now.

By iceman777
Aug 16, 2008

Thanks everyone for the quick reply , table mtn sounds bitchen to me
how bout some travel directions from colorado springs?? guide books??
good bars near by????

And yea Im mostly into clean aid, but hey I did bash the sh!@ out of pitons in my day..

Thanks again!!!! now all we need is the rain to let up fer awile

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From Denver, CO
Aug 18, 2008

Try Triple Exposure at Garden of the Gods:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/colorado_springs/g>>>>>

This is super steep, clean sandstone route that will allow you to do a bit of everything - bolt ladders consisting of drilled angles and some manky old 1/4 studs, some thin brass nutting, a bit of free climbing, and a traverse where you can make a nice hook move to avoid struggling between reachy bolt clips. On top of that, you get a nice "death triangle" anchor with mank at the end of the first pitch, then get to rap off an ancient pin anchor at the top.

There is no roof, though, but overall, I'd say it definitely gives you the flavor of a sandstone tower without the big drive.



By iceman777
Aug 19, 2008

Thanks for the info "not so famous old dude" I have been scoping that
line for awile now it looks sweet! just what the doctor ordered
When I start my next two week break im gona giver a go as long as the
sandstoe is dry

By Bill Duncan
From Jamestown, CO
Aug 19, 2008
The first ascent . . . rapped off from the first belay to take the shot, then jugged back up.  Steve's leading the second pitch, Jon belaying.

iceman777 wrote:
. . . table mtn sounds bitchen to me . . . good bars near by????


It's been a while since I lived in Golden, but . . .
Dive: Aces High on Main St. (this place has characters)
Styley: Old Capital Grill on Main St.
Standard: the Buffalo Rose on Main St.
My Favorite: the Rock Rest Lodge on South Golden Rd. This place has character.

I would second the notion that the Garden's aid lines are a good place to play in preparation for the desert. You might feel that Zion is bomber in comparison, and a hook move here or there is fairly common . . .

By iceman777
Aug 19, 2008

Thanks Bill Ill check em out

Does anyone have any recent beta on triple exposure?

By Ryan Tuleja
From Arvada, CO
Sep 4, 2008
standing on the summit

So are we talking about the West side of table mtn here? Any suggested lines for a beginner aid climber?

By Jason Kaplan
From Evergreen Co
Sep 4, 2008
avitar pic<br />

the look out mountain crag is pretty user friendly for c0-c1.
Boulder canyon is an obvious one also, a little harder but aid crack on cob rock and the aid roof at castle rock. my friend did the gill crack at castle rock on aid.

By John Klooster
Sep 22, 2008

Any other suggestions for easy clean aid in the Boulder area? Any info would be greatly appreciated.


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