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Big Wall w/Three People

Original Post
Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415

I know this has been discussed countless times before; however does anyone have any good links to various techniques for big wall climbing in a party of three? I know there are numerous different techniques with pros and cons for each respectively. Just trying to diversify possible techniques.

I tried searching the forums but wasn't successful in getting any worthwhile hits. Any info appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
Brent Butcher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 275

I would have the 2nd trail a rope and reclip the same pieces, safe and simple. May take longer but hopefully the leader and the 2nd climber can better manage bags, ropes.

NateSkains · · Anchorage, Ak · Joined May 2011 · Points: 110

3 Person team can be super quick or painfully slow.. It depends on how you run it.

My advice when running a 3 person team..

First off block pitch leading is the way to go.

(T1) Leader sends pitch. Builds anchor, fixes haul line.. Yells Haul is fixed.. then T2 jugs haul line.

While T2 is jugging haul line. T1 Pulls all the slack up for the lead line, and fixes it for T3.

By this time T2 is at the top of the pitch and can put T1 Back on belay..

While T1 is making upward progress. T2 sets up the haul, T3 sets bags free and then begins to clean while T2 Hauls.

Once the haul is complete, T2 and T3 tag the gear back to the leader and clean up the belay station..

From my experience most time is lost at the belay change overs.. Learn to work as a team and work efficiently in change overs and think about always moving upwards.

Although this is typically how it should be done, there always seems to be a lot of F-Off time between T2 and T3 because there bored and just trying to have a good time. Time tends to get wasted and things grind to a crawl..Best advice is as a team find a spot, practice hauling, jugging, and setting up belays/change overs as it is often never practice or thought out until your on a wall.

Just my 2 cents.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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