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Greatest Show Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back to Power T 
Begoon/Artz Corner T 
Big Top T 
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c) S 
Greatest Show On Earth, The T 
Just Another Pretty Face S 
Lavender Days S 
Mango Tango S 
Puppy Chow S 
Ziggerknot T 

Big Top 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lynn Hill, Russ Raffa
Season: gets sun, stays dry in rain
Page Views: 400
Submitted By: camhead on May 16, 2011

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Description 

This is a very aesthetic-looking splitter crack, which starts about forty feet up and above a roof. To start, you can either scramble up easy terrain to the left, or do a direct start through some steep horizontals that adds some 5.11 R climbing. Easy climbing up to a juggy roof with some suspect rock, clip a couple fixed pieces, and get an almost-no hands rest at the base of the splitter.

I don't want to give too much beta away on the splitter, except to say that there is very little true jamming/crack climbing on this route.

Location 

This is the farthest right prominent line at the Mango Tango/Greatest Show area. Very nice looking splitter going up white rock.

Protection 

medium to big stoppers, selection of mid-sized cams, one fixed stopper just above the roof, and a bolt right above that. You'll probably want a .5 camalot/orange Metolius sized piece to protect the crux.


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By newrivermike
Jan 23, 2014

The first ascent continued past where the bolt anchor is at the base of the upper roof and went to the top. This last 25 feet through the juggy roof is amazing. We've all been cheated out of the route's best climbing by lowering from the first anchor. I added a top anchor so now it's easy to continue to the top, lower back to the first anchor, untie, pull the rope, and lower again. It'd be a nightmare to try to clean it from the top. It's definitely worth the extra effort.