|Type:||Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Larry DeAngelo, Matt Clarke|
|Submitted By:||sqwirll on Mar 23, 2008|
|Comments on Big Sky||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
This climb is not correctly described or drawn in the Handren Guide.
As stated here - on the second pitch continue all the way along the right leaning crack into the gully. Do NOT climb above this crack - there is virtually no way to get over anywhere else.
Also - the Handren guide led us to join up with Romanian Rib for the last 2 pitches. In order to get there, it required a very ugly crawl through loose rock and vegetation. The description here looks like it followed a more natural line up the rib/face to the left. Better? Probably.
Also - there were a lot of loose and fragile holds on this climb. Particularly the runout slab above the crack/water runnel.
By Josh Jane
Mar 14, 2013
really enjoyed this route. Felt very comfortable and ran things out quite a bit...quite a bit. We went in 4 pitches w/ a lil' simul-ing, basically took the biggest, comfiest ledges we could find. Good beta on following the trough to get to the next rib and we did meet up w/ Romanian Rib's last pitch as drawn in the book and it was a dirty crawl to get there but not bad.
As I noted on Romanian Rib's page, I would avoid the rap slings in the descent trough that are wrapped around the natural formation. They're in really bad shape and it's hardly a down climb to the tree on the side w/ fresh slings that won't be right in the drainage path of water and debris. The actual down climb to the 3rd set of bolts is not bad at all but the cord and sling look a lil' old as well. Nice to add some freshies if yer passin' through.