|865 page views|
The route was climbed on a 70m rope, so belay locations may vary.
P1-Climb up the arete of the right facing corner and pull through a roof.
P2-Follow a right angling crack to the gully on the right.
P3-Climb a crack on the buttress on the right and build a hanging belay.
P4-Continue up the crack and another hanging belay at the top of the crack.
P5-From the top of the crack work out and left to get some gear and then run it out considerably on easy terrain. Belay at tree.
P6-Continue straight up to a clean handcrack.
P7-Climb the ridgeline on the left. On the first ascent the 4th class gully straight up was climbed. It was extemely loose and dangerous.
This route lies between Sunset Slabs and Romanian Rib. Locate a right facing corner capped with a roof.
Follow the First Creek Slabs descent.
Gear to 3". No fixed anchors or bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 crack.
BETA PHOTO: Cool plates and crack on pitch 4. Some small cams...
BETA PHOTO: The runout slab on pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: The handcrack on pitch 6.
|By Karl K|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 20, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R
This climb is not correctly described or drawn in the Handren Guide.
As stated here - on the second pitch continue all the way along the right leaning crack into the gully. Do NOT climb above this crack - there is virtually no way to get over anywhere else.
Also - the Handren guide led us to join up with Romanian Rib for the last 2 pitches. In order to get there, it required a very ugly crawl through loose rock and vegetation. The description here looks like it followed a more natural line up the rib/face to the left. Better? Probably.
Also - there were a lot of loose and fragile holds on this climb. Particularly the runout slab above the crack/water runnel.
|By Josh Jane|
Mar 14, 2013
really enjoyed this route. Felt very comfortable and ran things out quite a bit...quite a bit. We went in 4 pitches w/ a lil' simul-ing, basically took the biggest, comfiest ledges we could find. Good beta on following the trough to get to the next rib and we did meet up w/ Romanian Rib's last pitch as drawn in the book and it was a dirty crawl to get there but not bad.
As I noted on Romanian Rib's page, I would avoid the rap slings in the descent trough that are wrapped around the natural formation. They're in really bad shape and it's hardly a down climb to the tree on the side w/ fresh slings that won't be right in the drainage path of water and debris. The actual down climb to the 3rd set of bolts is not bad at all but the cord and sling look a lil' old as well. Nice to add some freshies if yer passin' through.