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Big Sky Corner 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,206
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 30, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: Pin Dome as seen from across the canyon at Plotinu...

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  • Description 

    The Big Sky Corner is the free version of the route Pin Job in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guide, page 117, route 24. This is one of the best sport routes in Boulder Canyon and one best technical stemming pitches anywhere. Climb up a groove past three bolt gaining a large ledge. Clip a bolt and traverse right gainging a small ledge. Here were the fun begins. Make a series of technical moves up a steep face to a horizontal crack, make a hard move to gain the corner proper and begin forty feet of technical stemming up the beautiful corner moving left at the overhang. Continue left using small face holds and a pocket in the overhang. One last technical move lead to the anchor. Great route in a great position high above Boulder Canyon.

    Protection 

    Ten bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


    Photos of Big Sky Corner Slideshow Add Photo
    The Big Sky Corner area.
    The Big Sky Corner area.
    The Big Sky Corner area.
    BETA PHOTO: The Big Sky Corner area.
    At the redpoint crux.  Photo by Jay Smith.
    At the redpoint crux. Photo by Jay Smith.

    Comments on Big Sky Corner Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Steve Levin
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 2, 2002

    Hey Bob- when is this route in the shade? Would you recommend an edging shoe?
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 6, 2003

    Smoky - I would recommend a smearing shoe and flexibility! The route is North-West facing so it never really gets into the sun, at least not this time of year (January). The bottom of BSC is a pile but the upper corner is cool / problematic / artful.
    By Ted Lanzano
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 23, 2005
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    This is one of the best climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon.After the grassy ledge, the climbing is sustained, very technical and fun. Unlike a lot of climbs these days, Big Sky Corner requires precise technique and not just strength. Not over until you clip the chains.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 25, 2005
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Mega-classic and technical; maybe the best route at the grade in Bo-Can. Kudos to Vaino and Bob...