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Big Sky Arete 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Vaino Kodas
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 207
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 14, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The Big Sky Corner area.
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  • Description 

    This route is located to the right of the Wall of Winter Warm on a rock with a a beautiful (soon to be Big Sky Corner, 5.12d) left-facing corner. The corner is listed in "Rossitier" Boulder Canyon guide page 117, route 24, name, Pin Job. To the right of the corner follow bolts up a steep face below a scoop. Make a hard move into the scoop and climb on good holds up the scoop to a large ledge. Place a yellow alien below the seventh bolt, then climb the blunt arete in a spectacular position with hard moves to the anchor. It helps to have a positive ape-index for the last move. Beautiful climb in a spectacular position.


    Protection 

    Ten bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Optional yellow alien between the 6th and 7th bolt.



    Photos of Big Sky Arete Slideshow Add Photo
    Pin Dome as seen from across the canyon at Plotinus Wall. <br /> <br />Photo by Vaino Kodas; used with permission.
    BETA PHOTO: Pin Dome as seen from across the canyon at Plotinu...
    Comments on Big Sky Arete Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    May 29, 2005

    Thank you to whoever cleaned my draws off this route and stashed them at the base of the climb. We only left my draws on the route since there was a rockfall incident resulting with a rock hitting me in the head and injuring me (fortunately not too seriously - blood running down my neck and stuff from the wound, but a CAT scan at BCH showed no internal damage). Wearing helmets while belaying is probably not a bad idea. We recovered the draws this morning, thinking at first that someone had swiped them since they were no longer on the route. Fortunately, I could not quite believe that someone had swiped my gear, so I looked in the nooks in the rocks at the base of the route for my gear and lo and behold it was there. :-)

    Was it one of the Jim's who cleaned and stashed the gear for me? Thanks guys. :-)

    Bob

    PS - This coulda been a lot worse, but I ducked into the corner and the big rock missed me after flying 60 feet, it was the 'little one' (bigger than a potato) that got me. :-(