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Big Sandy Bound (aka The Wetlands President) T 
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Vanishing Desert T 

Big Sandy Bound (aka The Wetlands President) 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rex Pieper & Doug Benner, January 1990
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 29, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Big Sandy Bound (aka The Wetlands President) (5.10...

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Description 

Make some easy moves onto the rock, mantle a large grey intrusion and clip the first of two bolts. Moving past the first bolt is the crux and involves getting up to and reaching another intrusion near the second bolt. Clip the bolt (a spinner) and then work your way up into ledgefall range as you make the gritty exit moves.

The hard moves on this are well protected but a fall from near the top could be disastrous. Should you fall the bolt might hold, but even if it does you'll probably hit the intrusion and break your ankles. Probably better to toprope this, or better yet just avoid it altogether.

Location 

Left of Global Warming on the left side of the south face, next to an arete.

Protection 

2 bolts (5/16"), anchors


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By Rex Pieper
Oct 5, 2006

Hey now...this route is kinda fun. Pity it's short. I took some decent falls figuring out where it went on the FA (tried staying by the arete). You won't hit that stance. Jeez, sport climbers ;) I wouldn't want to fall from the exit moves though. Doug was ready to start running downhill if I did. Big Sandy Bound is a play on where you'd end up if you fell from the exit (the ground) and the small town in northeastern Texas that Doug was moving to several weeks after the FA. Where Randy came up with "Wetlands President" I'll never guess.

Some amazing fingertip friction holds on this route that really surprised me that they worked.