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Trad Rock
Routes Sorted
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Ass Over Teacup 
Baby Jr. 
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked 
Big Nosed Kate 
Chosen One, The 
Cochise Toecheese 
Hell in a Handbasket 
Isle of You 
Jizzneyland 
Now It's My Turn 
OK Corral 
Rabbits Feat 
Rise and Shine, Cupcake 
Stone Woman 

Big Nosed Kate 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Strassman, Jackie Carroll
Page Views: 1,442
Submitted By: Nick Kuhn on Mar 1, 2004
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Description 

This route is the first bolt line to the right of Baby Jr. Gets Spanked (BJGS follows the brown stain up the face). Big Nosed Kate follows bolts up straightforward climbing to a ledge, then ascends tough face for a couple of moves (crux) to easier climbing above. Staying directly under the bolts may push the rating into 5.9 range. Also, beware of hitting the ledge with a fall from the crux; possibly consider tying in your belayer if they weigh considerably less than you do.

A direct start from the trees protected by a single bolt is hard climbing. To avoid this, simply traverse in from the left.


Protection 

6-8 bolts, chain anchors on top.



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By Vincent Greene
Jul 5, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The direct start from the trees is around a 5.10a move straight up the groove. You might want to consider skipping the first bolt - by the time you clip it, you have already made the hard move.

By Brian Boyd
Administrator
Feb 16, 2009

The direct start is fun. Definite ledge-smacking potential if you blow the upper crux section.