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Starr Mountain
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Big Men, Small Airplanes 
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Excalibur 
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Pleasing to the Touch 
Sound of One Finger Bleeding, The 

Big Men, Small Airplanes 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Ordner, Howie Cox - 1981
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: saxfiend on Mar 1, 2008
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Description 

Good protection takes some of the scare out of this roofy climb.

Starting in a left-facing corner, climb the corner hand/finger crack to a spacious ledge (see variation below). Continue up from the ledge to the big roof and follow another hand crack out to its end, then up the face to the top.


Variation - 5.8 

Climb the left-facing corner and finish at the ledge without pulling the roof. Bolted anchors here make toproping easy. About 30'.


Location 

Starts about 15' right of The Sound of One Finger Bleeding. Rap down from trees at the top.


Protection 

Small to medium gear; tape up for hand jamming. Build a gear anchor at the top.



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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Feb 15, 2011

The 5.8 lower section is a nice lead in its own right. Great crack climbing and good pro.