Big Mac Couloir
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|Type: ||Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 11 pitches, 1200', Grade IV|
|Consensus: ||WI4- M4- [details]|
|FA: ||Joe Hladick and Scott Kimball, 1979|
|Submitted By: ||Chris Sheridan on Jan 30, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: This photo, taken from the Black Lake - West Gully...
This route climbs a prominent couloir system on the northeast face of McHenry's peak. If you're lucky enough to catch the face in good conditions the climbing is reportedly somewhat moderate at M4-. However, conditions I've encountered have been a grade or so harder. The climbing tends to be more of a mixed snow and rock route without much ice. The somewhat remote location, length, and proximity to other routes (for enchaining) make this route an excellent venue for some adventure climbing.
One obvious enchainment option is to climb the West Gully of Black Lake followed by this route, or another on the same face. Another less obvious option would be to climb the Hourglass Couloir on Arrowhead. The easterly descent of which would put you right at the base of this face.
Catching this route in perfect conditions may be tough. Both times I've been on the face, late January and early March have yielded tough conditions. However, the route is still very enjoyable when the cards aren't all in your favor.
Start at the base of short slab which forms a weakness in the initial rock band on the north east face.
An alpine rock rack with a few screws, pins, and two specters, the latter being key for the many frozen turf sections.
Eric Harvey polishing his skills, and dulling his ...
Chris Sheridan negotiating the second overhang of ...
Chris Sheridan happy to get a good stick in frozen...
Eric Harvey leading the first pitch after Big Mac ...
Bailing w/ pride from the P1 variation to Snow Ben...
BETA PHOTO: 25MAY08 Conditions showing ice of Big Mac and rout...
Eric Harvey en route to the Big Mac Couloir on 1/2...
Leading out on our third pitch. The snow was quite...
Leading pitch 5 through the rock band. This pitch ...
Gil following pitch 4.
Typical mixed rock and grass/moss climbing in the ...
On the approach after soloing West Gully and appro...
|Comments on Big Mac Couloir
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Nov 10, 2007
B. Gillett and C. Burns both call these routes Grade III, but I respectfully disagree. If the Casual Route on The Diamond is Grade IV, and AMU and the NE Face of Notchtop are Grade III, then these routes seem like they should be Grade IV. Mind you, that's Winter routes vs. a Summer route (e.g. apples vs. oranges), but seriously, the McHenry's/Arrowhead Cirque is both Gi-normous and very far away. Expect a ~16 hr day (which can be difficult in the Winter months) or break it up into 2 days.
From: Pinewood Springs
May 26, 2008
Around 2005 time frame we encounter the upper part of the 4th pitch as a detached wall of ice debris, very scary.
If the second pitch has no ice then crossing the large snow band is 80-90m with no rock pro.
|By erik rieger|
From: Boulder, CO
May 8, 2013
Quite poor snow conditions 5/5/13. My partner and I climbed West Gully in just 30 minutes only to bail three pitches up the Big Mac due to hot temps, numerous wet slides, and isothermal mush. A significant wet slide swept the route mid-way up after we rappelled. The summit ridge cornice is huge right now. A very cool-looking face. With neve conditions, this would be stellar.