P1: fingers in corner to ledge to OW to tree-5.9
P2: varied steep cracks- some big, crux pulls bulge past squeeze- protects well w/ BB in pod"got a bigbro in you pocket or are you just happy?"--5.10
P3: easy ground link w/ P4: steep hand crack thru pod, roof, "mustard corner"- 5.10
P5: varied, ledgy in big chimney- 5.10-pull jugs past roof on L wall then link w/ P6: Obsidian chimney to chossy- 5.9
P7: Tunnel thru- 5.8 short.
P8: OW lieback to chimney past ledges to chimney up and left- 5.10
P9:"Bush pitches" -manky vegetated cracks 5.10 or head right out of chimney- a little lower than belay up ledgy easy face (some loose blocks) past "hoodoo rap" and up nice finger crack in a corner-5.10?
P10 or P11 if you broke up the previous: head up and left thru sandy but fun chimney, out a roof and up the "double white russian"- flared finger and hands-5.11-
from there you are on your own: about 10 more pitches- many moderate but one with a wide 5.11crux. rap the route with 2 ropes; bring lots of extra webbing as the anchors are in poor shape. also bring lots of quick-links or leaver-biners as we sacrificed hardware on all but one of the lower raps- likely the upper ones are in the same state.
left of prominent right facing corner system that starts a pitch lower on the middle of wall on SW face, look for big chimney a couple pitches up and a pink streak coming down thru white rock on summit ridge.
dbls to #4, 1 #5, 1#6, & 1 #4 bigbro!
Some of the trash we carried down from the route. ...
Jacky treehorn bivy.
Nov 5, 2009
2 #5 camalots for the ow pitch is good, we had a # 6 wc and # 6 bd and 1# 5 bd but I was only able to use the #6 cams in a couple spots while # 5 works all over. Great route. We bailed just after the ow for lack of water.
|By G Michaud|
Nov 9, 2009
For the OW pitch, we had a little bit more pro than you Zach, three #6 BD, one #5 BD and one Blue Big Bro (at the end of the pitch, optional). We had the same water problem.
The Approach is LONG with the haul bag. Bivy at pitch 7 is GREAT!
By the way, Smash Mouth is incredible!
|By Ben Kiessel|
Mar 28, 2012
Here are my thoughts.
-This route seemed like a lot of crap pitches and bush whacking for few good pitches.
-We brought one 5 and 6. I would bring an extra number 5 if you don't feel comfortable pushing a 5 up with you.
-With a 70 we linked 1&2, 3&4, 5-7, 9&10, 13&14, 16&17, 19&20.
-Linking Walter's Whites with the Jesus was a pretty sick pitch, plus it took out a hanging belay.
-We got a rope stuck in the crack while rappelling the Jesus pitch.
-It took 1.5 hours for the hike in and the same for the hike out.
|By greg t|
Dec 19, 2013
I approach isnt that bad if you know where to go.. if not, it can get ugly. For the route.. it redefined the terms dirty, chossy, and death blocks. A memorable outing at best.