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John's Tower
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Big House 
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Unsorted Routes:

Big House 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,536
Submitted By: William Prehm on Aug 10, 2003
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upper blair with evening sun. Big house is the ob...

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Description 

Located on John's Tower. To access this wall just locate the 8 Ball formation and park near its base. The parking area is totally trashed with burnt up logs and broken glass.

Big House is north-facing and is about 30' to the left of Becker. It is very apparent from a distance and appears to split the wall in half. I thought this climb was excellent! Heel and Toe rated this climb a 5.7, but I think its rating is closer to 5.8+. The climb starts in a corner which moves up to a nice hand crack through an overhang/bulge (crux). After the bulge, the climb widens to OW then chimney and finishes at a double bolt/ring belay.


Protection 

Pro extra hand size to #4 Camalot. 2 bolt/ring anchors.



Photos of Big House Slideshow Add Photo
Curt Shea on the 8+ crux of "Big House," Upper Blair/Vedauwoo, Wyoming. 27 May, 2003. Photographed/belayed by Ben Boykin
Curt Shea on the 8+ crux of "Big House," Upper Bla...
Dan Bogardus approaching the anchor.
Dan Bogardus approaching the anchor.
Comments on Big House Add Comment
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By Jeremy Nelson
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 12, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great route with fun stems and good jams. No way this is 5.7 (even for Vedauwoo). The crux bulge is short, but nevertheless it's strenuous and at least 5.8 and probably 5.9 (unless you've either got big hands or are unusually comfortable with fist jams). Protects well. Really satisfying.

By Mike D
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

A good route, #4 Friend is the largest piece I used.
The rating in Kelman's book seems fair at 5.8.

By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

It does seem pretty stout for 5.7. I would rate it 5.8 through the short crux. I didn't find it to be nearly as asthetic as Baobab Tree, but an ok climb nonetheless. Use caution at the top around the chockstones, they will rain down pebbles on your belayer.

By bdiddy
Jul 22, 2009

Just did it last night and the lowermost chockstone split in half and I cleaned it so it might not rain down so many pebbles and rocks.