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Tom O. on Big Guy
Gorgeous splitter offwidth. Laser cut.
Far right side of the scarface wall. Between torque wrench and wavy gravy.
The crack starts up pretty high. I scramble the first 40 feet or so up a slabby handcrack (you can walk or bump a #2 or 3 camalot. just don't leave it there) up to a ledge.
From there here is my rack. In order. In Camalot.
4 (new 4)
4 (old 4)
4.5 (old size)
5 (new size)
6 (new size)
that should cover you good enough. pretty much just 2 of each size #3 and bigger and you are good. of course more cams if you might have to go for teh C1 ascent.
BETA PHOTO: Getting worked. . .
Big Guy is the wide crack. . ....
BETA PHOTO: wish I was a better OW climber.....
Mike F having a ball on Big Guy
Buster getting in this daily work out by hauling u...
No hands rest
after my twenty footer- I was tired
Between the last good fist jam and the god-sent kn...
|By Danny Inman|
Oct 1, 2007
Wonderful route, so much easier on top rope. While leading this, placing gear and keeping the rope out of my way became a fiasco of epic proportions.
|By Sam Benedict|
From: Denver, CO
Nov 27, 2007
This is one wicked-bad route. Totally Bitchin'. I don't recall ever working so hard for an onsight (or anything else for that matter). I had to stop twice near the top to try to puke, but alas, nothing came up, so i kept on truckin' in a true blue-collar style. To call this climb sustained would be an offensive understatement. It's one of those climbs where no one move is harder than 10+, but EVERY move is 10+, and the fucker is 120' long! And apparently there is more, a higher set of anchors for the intrepid and sadistic few. Well shit in a bag and punch it! Who would want to keep going? It looks broken and burly above the first anchors, but whatever gets your rocks off, right? It is a great pitch to refine OW technique on as there is pretty much only one way to climb the thing efficiently (hand fist stacks). Oh and Danny, I feel your pain with the rope, there is kind of no way to avoid it, but you can make it better by shoving your larger cams WAY back in there (almost as far as you can reach), don't worry, you will get them back.
|By Lon Black|
Apr 2, 2008
Definitely get on it if you have the gear, cajones, and grit. What a total body workout. You may not wanna eat lunch right before going up it.
From: San Francisco, Ca
Jan 19, 2009
I think the best way to minimize the rope fiasco would be to attach a long runner to the cam you are placing/walking. This way you can place it above your head without pulling any rope up. It would also be feasible to place gear behind you. That way you wouldn't have to worry about passing and kicking your already tipped out cam. All this is theoretical of course since I thrashed and grunted my way up it the same way everyone else probably does.
From: Oakland, Ca
Mar 23, 2009
Definitely runner your pieces and push them back- rope runs great that way. At the creek we always talk about the size dependence of the grade but it's always hand or finger size. This one is all about your knee size! I have big knees relative to my handstacks and probably had to go 15 or more feet higher than my friends before I could slot it in. I will climb this again!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 23, 2009
Really hard for those with smaller hands, feet and knees. It was too big to even butterfly or fist-stack up high & too big for my small knees.
Apr 1, 2012
The anchors might be worthy of some maintenance or replacement. When I clipped them on March 29, 2012, they were spinning badly -- I could hit either bolt hanger and send it flying around like a pin-wheel. The bolts are beefy, though, and if they go as deep into the rock as I imagine, a hammer tap and some tightening might be all they need.
|By jeffro popko|
Nov 14, 2012
i climbed this without long slings on my cams and placed them deep so the rope stayed out of my way even as i passed. i also didn't bring a #6 camalot and walked my final #5 all the way to the anchor no problem. it sure felt nice once i got my knee in there.