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Big gear for the Gunks
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By Dave Holliday
Sep 21, 2011
The one they call The Husky, Natasha Holliday, Esq., enjoying Dog Dayz at Scott Carpenter Pool.
I'm headed to the Gunks in a couple of weeks and I wouldn't want my big gear (#5 Camalot and larger) to remain lonely at home. What are some routes where it's necessary to use big gear to get adequate protection?

We did Baby last year in case anyone suggests it. I just thought of the one by Ken's Crack; CC Route, correct? I seem to recall something wide at the Nears but its name escapes me right now. Anything else at any difficulty rating? Thanks.

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By JSH
Administrator
Sep 21, 2011
JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker
By Ken's, you're thinking of Boston.

The start to Layback is wide, and you get a short wide bit on P1 of Yellow Ridge. You can also use the chimney start to Frog's Head / Maria if you're seeking wide. Miss Bailey is a fantastic route with a chimney on P1. You can probably place a big piece in Belly Roll, but you wouldn't really want to. Take a look at Ventre de Boef.

However - for the most part, there are few if any routes where a #5 is truly necessary for adequate protection.

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By Gunkiemike
Sep 21, 2011
There's a wide crack 5.8 route at Peterskill (not in the guidebook. Use MP's route finder: Peterskill/East Pillar/Bro Crack) that will gobble up multiple big cams.

Ah, here's a link:
mountainproject.com/v/bro-crac...

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By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
Sep 21, 2011
JSH wrote:
However - for the most part, there are few if any routes where a #5 is truly necessary for adequate protection.



Yup - although there are plenty of places to place a big cam, there's usually good smaller pro nearby.

A #4 will let you protect Layback and Keyhole. Either one will probably take a #5 if you must stick it somewhere.

You can probably use both on Yellow Ridge as well, although again, neither is needed as there are other placements nearby.

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By -sp
From East-Coast
Sep 21, 2011
Buenos Dias!
Dave Holliday wrote:
I'm headed to the Gunks in a couple of weeks and I wouldn't want my big gear (#5 Camalot and larger) to remain lonely at home. What are some routes where it's necessary to use big gear to get adequate protection? We did Baby last year in case anyone suggests it. I just thought of the one by Ken's Crack; CC Route, correct? I seem to recall something wide at the Nears but its name escapes me right now. Anything else at any difficulty rating? Thanks.


You can certainly "use it" more often than you'll "need it". But a few routes that come to my mind are Keyhole, Baby, and possibly Wrist (I can't remember if a #4 is enough). Maybe Gunkiemike can weigh in again?

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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Sep 21, 2011
#4 is fine for Wrist. a 5 would probably go in there too but you don't need it.

Inverted Layback at the Nears takes a #6 i believe? Same with High E if you want to make your second carry it basically the whole last pitch ;)

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By MaraC
Sep 21, 2011
taking a break from climbing shoes before rapping off Arrow
A #3 is enough to protect the exit move of P1 of Wrist, but if I put it as high enough to make me feel good, it's tipped out. A #4 goes in higher and tighter. I bet a #5 would be too big, but I've never had the pleasure of handling one. :D

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By SethG
Sep 21, 2011
You could use the #5 at the off-width at the end of the first pitch of Airy Aria (5.8). You could also use the #5 on Double Clutch (5.9+), although as with many of the climbs above it isn't necessary.

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By Gunkiemike
Sep 21, 2011
Of the routes mentioned, Baby is probably the one where a large cam is most helpful, in that it changes a PG kinda crux into a G rated crux.

There's a couple wide cracks out at Lost City in the 5.8 - 5.10 range, but I won't be posting details of them here. Here's a photo from tradgirl.com:

tradgirl.com/areas/ny/gunks/mo...

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By lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Sep 21, 2011
Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Struttin.
Leave the #5 at home, save weight and space in luggage to bring me treats from the Breckenridge Brewery.

Better yet, take a rack of c3 cams, throw them at any formerly r-x rated climb and make them a lot less heady...but still scary. - DL

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By Adam McFarren
From Boulder, Colorado
Sep 22, 2011
Dave Holliday wrote:
You can't get Vanilla Porter back east? Oh the humanities.


Have you tried Dry Dock's version? I haven't been able to drink the Breck stuff since.

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By davidbr
Sep 24, 2011
Bee Bite takes 5 or 6 inch gear (mind the looseness). Colorful's Crack takes gear about 6 inches (though far enough below the crux that it's probably a highball boulder problem anyway).
Been a while since I was on it, but doesn't Snake take soemthing 4 or 5 inches?
There's also White Pillar, and there's a new Williams route out at the far end of the Nears. Can't remember its name but it is one of the last routes listed in his newest guide and it has an offwidth variation on the second pitch which takes a 5 or 6 inch piece.

SPeaking of the which, are there other Gunks climbers who love the wide and would happen to be free this Saturday (the 1st of Oct.)? Shoot me a pm if you'd like to meet up...

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By bparry
From Branford
Sep 24, 2011
Me on the Pleasure Dome, Tuolomne
Disco Death March.

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