Big gear for the Gunks

I'm headed to the Gunks in a couple of weeks and I wouldn't want my big gear (#5 Camalot and larger) to remain lonely at home. What are some routes where it's necessary to use big gear to get adequate protection?

We did Baby last year in case anyone suggests it. I just thought of the one by Ken's Crack; CC Route, correct? I seem to recall something wide at the Nears but its name escapes me right now. Anything else at any difficulty rating? Thanks.

There's a wide crack 5.8 route at Peterskill (not in the guidebook. Use MP's route finder: Peterskill/East Pillar/Bro Crack) that will gobble up multiple big cams.

Ah, here's a link:
mountainproject.com/v/bro-c…

JSH wrote:However - for the most part, there are few if any routes where a #5 is truly necessary for adequate protection.

Yup - although there are plenty of places to place a big cam, there's usually good smaller pro nearby.

A #4 will let you protect Layback and Keyhole. Either one will probably take a #5 if you must stick it somewhere.

You can probably use both on Yellow Ridge as well, although again, neither is needed as there are other placements nearby.

Dave Holliday wrote:I'm headed to the Gunks in a couple of weeks and I wouldn't want my big gear (#5 Camalot and larger) to remain lonely at home. What are some routes where it's necessary to use big gear to get adequate protection? We did Baby last year in case anyone suggests it. I just thought of the one by Ken's Crack; CC Route, correct? I seem to recall something wide at the Nears but its name escapes me right now. Anything else at any difficulty rating? Thanks.

You can certainly "use it" more often than you'll "need it". But a few routes that come to my mind are Keyhole, Baby, and possibly Wrist (I can't remember if a #4 is enough). Maybe Gunkiemike can weigh in again?

#4 is fine for Wrist. a 5 would probably go in there too but you don't need it.

Inverted Layback at the Nears takes a #6 i believe? Same with High E if you want to make your second carry it basically the whole last pitch ;)

A #3 is enough to protect the exit move of P1 of Wrist, but if I put it as high enough to make me feel good, it's tipped out. A #4 goes in higher and tighter. I bet a #5 would be too big, but I've never had the pleasure of handling one. :D

You could use the #5 at the off-width at the end of the first pitch of Airy Aria (5.8). You could also use the #5 on Double Clutch (5.9+), although as with many of the climbs above it isn't necessary.

Of the routes mentioned, Baby is probably the one where a large cam is most helpful, in that it changes a PG kinda crux into a G rated crux.

There's a couple wide cracks out at Lost City in the 5.8 - 5.10 range, but I won't be posting details of them here. Here's a photo from tradgirl.com:

tradgirl.com/areas/ny/gunks…

Leave the #5 at home, save weight and space in luggage to bring me treats from the Breckenridge Brewery.

Better yet, take a rack of c3 cams, throw them at any formerly r-x rated climb and make them a lot less heady...but still scary. - DL

Dave Holliday wrote: You can't get Vanilla Porter back east? Oh the humanities.

Have you tried Dry Dock's version? I haven't been able to drink the Breck stuff since.

Bee Bite takes 5 or 6 inch gear (mind the looseness). Colorful's Crack takes gear about 6 inches (though far enough below the crux that it's probably a highball boulder problem anyway).
Been a while since I was on it, but doesn't Snake take soemthing 4 or 5 inches?
There's also White Pillar, and there's a new Williams route out at the far end of the Nears. Can't remember its name but it is one of the last routes listed in his newest guide and it has an offwidth variation on the second pitch which takes a 5 or 6 inch piece.

SPeaking of the which, are there other Gunks climbers who love the wide and would happen to be free this Saturday (the 1st of Oct.)? Shoot me a pm if you'd like to meet up...

Disco Death March.