Big Eagle Feather  5.11b

163 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  Submitted By:  MTKirk on Jan 27, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

TR on Big Eagle Feather

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Amazing splitter crack! (topped by 15' of junk) Start by pulling a roof on thin hands, cruise up the easier thin hands section on good poddy feet, place some good cams, take a deep breath, and blast through a right leaning section of rattly fingers with imaginary footholds. Then try not to fall before clipping a draw into one of the pieces of mank that passes for a mid anchor (or better yet hang a second rope down from the excellent anchors at the top of the cliff). An amazing climb with great protection. I highly recommend going for the onsight. In the likely event you fall, it will be on good gear with a clean fall zone. The climb has a category 4 walk up/down 30' to climbers left.

Location 

Look for an amazing splitter in a lone buttress of sandstone. It's on your left as you hike up the jeep trail from the parking lot. Location 45.81161,-108.686176.

Protection 

Camalots from #2 down to .4, heavy on the 1 to .5 range. Has an Excellent top anchor (but mortal people can't lead to it) and a sketchy looking mid anchor (I don't use this). You can lower off your last piece & clean it later on rap from the top, or hang a second rope down in the first place.