|(4) Music Hall
Large slopers and round holds pass three bolts to a ledge. Tall climbers (over 6 feet tall) can easily clip and pass the next two bolts, however shorter climbers require a bit of creative legwork in the large horizontal under the fourth bolt and small holds in between the big stuff.
In the original guidebook, written by a generation that is *far* shorter on average than the current crop of Taiwanese, this route was rated 5.11c/d. It has since been downgraded to 5.11b
Situated directly between Fucking Fall and Finger Crack. The start is just beneath an old, rusty, not-to-be-trusted expansion bolt.
Also, there is one old rusty expansion bolt and hanger at about 2 meters.
|By Matt Robertson|
May 12, 2010
This route is named Big Canyon (‘å’J or da gu). Like many other routes at Music Hall, it is equipped with reliable glue-in bolts. 5.11b is a fair grade.
|By Anmin Deng|
From: Panchiao, Taipei, Taiwan
Jan 14, 2011
The name "‘åŒÛ" ("da4-gu3") means "Big Drum", not "Big Canyon" (where "Drum" and "Canyon" sound identical ("gu3") in Chinese). Many routes in "Music Hall" are named after music instruments.
From: Taipei City
Jun 29, 2014
As a shorter dude, the suggested beta for me was "grow" but after watching my taller partner tackle the crux with creative Leg-work, I used very similar methods to get past the ledge -- height may be a hindrance but certainly not an excuse on this climb.
However the fun doesnt stop there! Poor feet and small holds after the ledge mean sustained 11b action all the way to the anchors.
One note - if you are shorter or if 11b is near your limit, stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.