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BETA PHOTO: 4. New River Gorge Homesick Blues, 9+.
5. The Viru...
Climb the crack up the dihedral with the clean right side face and large horizontal slash 2/3 of the way up. Solid finger and hand jams with some nice jugs as a break are throughout the climb. The layback move above the slash is the crux move.
It is #8 in the photo to the right =>
Some slings for the TR is nice, otherwise bring mid-size cams for trad lead.
Myke Komarnitsky stemming wide, while Bill Kalinow...
Shaun Miller reaching for that bomber hold on the ...
Shaun stemming wide.
Josh Campbell jammin'.
Josh, trying to crank.
Peter Dillon contemplating the upper crux.
Big Dihedral. Contrasting bw.
Placing gear on lead. Photo courtesy of Scott Borg...
Up the Big Dihedral!!
|By Edward Jenner|
Dec 19, 2001
For a N Table climb (i.e. short), I really like this one. A nice break from the face climbs. I found one section above the slash both trickier and more difficult to protect than I anticipated from the ground and ended up using a small Alien in a crack on the left face. A small nut would also work.
|By Greg Kneser|
Feb 16, 2002
This route is a good fun though short. The pro is fairly straightforward (it is) and you can make it nice and easy if you use the crack and stem/use the face.
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2003
One of the best 5.8s at Golden Cliffs. An excellent, well-protected lead; bring your trad rack!
|By Matt Chan|
From: Denver, CO
Mar 18, 2004
Definitely fun, but sadly, very short. I carried #0.5 - #2 Camalots with a double #1 and up to a #8 stopper, and it protected very well. Bring some webbing and gear for a couple 1" cracks at the top.
|By Anonymous Coward|
May 2, 2004
Whoever put the two anchor bolts in, thanks. This is a fun climb at an established toprope crag, so it should definitely have a solid anchor. This makes it much safer for the newbies who don't have the experience/gear. I may despise bolts near perfectly protectable cracks, but I never shun a solid set of belay/rap anchors. . .
|By Paul Sampson|
Aug 3, 2004
I wish there were a lot more routes like this one at Table. It's a fun little crack climb with some pretty good stemming rests / gear stances if you look for them.
|By Mike Mullen|
Aug 13, 2004
Love this climb. Just wanted to let people know that anchors were added to this climb. We lead it but it would be easy to set-up a TR on this climb now.
|By Buff Johnson|
Jan 19, 2006
Fun line, a pink tri-cam can protect after the small overhang, red-tri cam looks like a good placement but is too big. See Matt's comment above for pro.
|By Jeremy Hakes|
From: Golden, Colorado
Apr 25, 2006
We set up a TR after climbing Lemons Limes and Tangerines. This is a fun crack climb! The crux, IMO, is when the crack constricts about 1/2 way up.
|By Scott Edlin|
From: boulder, co
Nov 10, 2006
The TR anchors are in a completely disconnected block about twice the size of a microwave sitting on and slighly overhanging the rim. It looks like someone could crow-bar the thing off without too much difficulty.
|By Matt Gates|
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Mar 19, 2007
Great climb, but I second the comment about the anchors in the detached block. I appreciate the anchors, but shouldn't they be on the opposite face which appears to be solid rock?
|By rena brand|
From: Littleton, CO
Nov 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+ PG13
This is my favorite climb at Golden Cliffs. Gives just enough of a challenge but fun. Lots of ways to test your technique on this climb. You could try to jam the crack or stem. I do it different every time.
|By Ben Helgeson|
Jan 26, 2008
This is the most memorable trad climb at the cliffs. I thought it was just strenuous enough, but took gear well. Set an anchor with gear up top. Don't use the anchors on the detached block. We see people using those anchors when we go up there, but it is a bad idea....
From: Silver City, NM
Aug 23, 2010
Good grief. I found this thing awkward near the top, but overall a really fun route.
|By Joshua Steenburgh|
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 31, 2013
This route just eats hand and finger-sized cams. Bring as many as you feel like carrying. Set of BD 0.5-3 will keep you well protected, doubles of #1 is nice. Excellent jamming with nice rests spread throughout. Got awkward for me at the top and after taking my first fall on gear...I may have thrown up.