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 ADVANCED
Brown Cloud Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-viral 
Ark, The 
Axis of Weasels 
Baggins' Blunt Arete 
Big Dihedral 
Bolted Line 
Brown Cloud ArÍte 
Bullet The Brown Cloud 
Chimney 
Crack 
Crack (2 left of Interface) 
Crack (right of Interface) 
Crack/Chimney 
Deck Chairs on the Titanic 
Interface aka Slab Left 
Iraqi Road 
John Adams' Adams Apple 
Kid's Climb 
Killian's Dead 
Louise 
Louise Arete 
New River Gorge Homesick Blues 
Of Sound Mind and Body 
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines 
Pee Into the Wind 
Pee on Dee 
Pee on Me 
Protection From the Virus 
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic 
Retro-Crack 
Right of Interface 
Solo Route aka Life Raft 
Tenacious 
Thelma 
Thick Crust 
Tiny Face 
Tiny Pillar 
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) 
Unknown Crack 
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) 
Unknown left of Left Slab 
Unknown Route 
Variation to The Virus 
Virus, The 
Volobee (aka Jolobee) 
Wide Crack 
Windy Days 
Ypsilon 

Big Dihedral 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: The Berks
Page Views: 7,317
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (132)
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Placing gear on lead. Photo courtesy of Scott Borg...
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the crack up the dihedral with the clean right side face and large horizontal slash 2/3 of the way up. Solid finger and hand jams with some nice jugs as a break are throughout the climb. The layback move above the slash is the crux move.

It is #8 in the photo to the right =>


Protection 

Some slings for the TR is nice, otherwise bring mid-size cams for trad lead.



Photos of Big Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
4. New River Gorge Homesick Blues, 9+. <br />5. The Virus, 12-. <br />6. Thick Crust, 7. <br />7. Unnamed Face, 10+. <br />8. Big Dihedral, 8. <br />9. Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines, 8. <br />10. Protection from the Virus, 10.
BETA PHOTO: 4. New River Gorge Homesick Blues, 9+.
5. The Viru...
Myke Komarnitsky stemming wide, while Bill Kalinowski follows on Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines.
Myke Komarnitsky stemming wide, while Bill Kalinow...
Stemfest.
Stemfest.
Shaun Miller reaching for that bomber hold on the left side.
Shaun Miller reaching for that bomber hold on the ...
Shaun stemming wide.
Shaun stemming wide.
Peter Dillon contemplating the upper crux.
Peter Dillon contemplating the upper crux.
Josh Campbell jammin'.
Josh Campbell jammin'.
Big Dihedral. Contrasting bw.
Big Dihedral. Contrasting bw.
Josh, trying to crank.
Josh, trying to crank.
Up the Big Dihedral!!
Up the Big Dihedral!!
Comments on Big Dihedral Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 18, 2014
By Edward Jenner
Dec 19, 2001

For a N Table climb (i.e. short), I really like this one. A nice break from the face climbs. I found one section above the slash both trickier and more difficult to protect than I anticipated from the ground and ended up using a small Alien in a crack on the left face. A small nut would also work.

By Greg Kneser
Feb 16, 2002

This route is a good fun though short. The pro is fairly straightforward (it is) and you can make it nice and easy if you use the crack and stem/use the face.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 3, 2003

One of the best 5.8s at Golden Cliffs. An excellent, well-protected lead; bring your trad rack!

By Matt Chan
From: Boulder
Mar 18, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Definitely fun, but sadly, very short. I carried #0.5 - #2 Camalots with a double #1 and up to a #8 stopper, and it protected very well. Bring some webbing and gear for a couple 1" cracks at the top.

By Anonymous Coward
May 2, 2004

Whoever put the two anchor bolts in, thanks. This is a fun climb at an established toprope crag, so it should definitely have a solid anchor. This makes it much safer for the newbies who don't have the experience/gear. I may despise bolts near perfectly protectable cracks, but I never shun a solid set of belay/rap anchors. . .

By Paul Sampson
Aug 3, 2004

I wish there were a lot more routes like this one at Table. It's a fun little crack climb with some pretty good stemming rests / gear stances if you look for them.

By Mike Mullen
From: Littleton
Aug 13, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Love this climb. Just wanted to let people know that anchors were added to this climb. We lead it but it would be easy to set-up a TR on this climb now.

By Buff Johnson
Jan 19, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Fun line, a pink tri-cam can protect after the small overhang, red-tri cam looks like a good placement but is too big. See Matt's comment above for pro.

By Jeremy Hakes
From: Golden, Colorado
Apr 25, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

We set up a TR after climbing Lemons Limes and Tangerines. This is a fun crack climb! The crux, IMO, is when the crack constricts about 1/2 way up.

By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Nov 10, 2006

The TR anchors are in a completely disconnected block about twice the size of a microwave sitting on and slighly overhanging the rim. It looks like someone could crow-bar the thing off without too much difficulty.

By Matt Gates
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Great climb, but I second the comment about the anchors in the detached block. I appreciate the anchors, but shouldn't they be on the opposite face which appears to be solid rock?

By rena brand
From: Littleton, CO
Nov 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

This is my favorite climb at Golden Cliffs. Gives just enough of a challenge but fun. Lots of ways to test your technique on this climb. You could try to jam the crack or stem. I do it different every time.

By Ben Helgeson
From: Denver
Jan 26, 2008

This is the most memorable trad climb at the cliffs. I thought it was just strenuous enough, but took gear well. Set an anchor with gear up top. Don't use the anchors on the detached block. We see people using those anchors when we go up there, but it is a bad idea....

By Gilamouse
From: Silver City, NM
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Good grief. I found this thing awkward near the top, but overall a really fun route.

By Joshua Steenburgh
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 31, 2013

This route just eats hand and finger-sized cams. Bring as many as you feel like carrying. Set of BD 0.5-3 will keep you well protected, doubles of #1 is nice. Excellent jamming with nice rests spread throughout. Got awkward for me at the top and after taking my first fall on gear...I may have thrown up.

By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Good line - much like gritstone but less aggressive. Awkward move near top, low end HVS 5a in UK terms.

By Andrew Locke
From: Louisville, CO
Jan 18, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

5.8+ seems pretty on the money. I struggled the most about 2 moves before the anchor, when the crack flares. There is a good jam deep, but it's a reach for it and awkward to move off of. Protection is great from bottom to top.