Placing gear on lead. Photo courtesy of Scott Borg...
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>
Stay tuned for an announcement of the transfer to the County, as well as an upcoming celebration at Golden Cliffs to commemorate the legacy of Mayford Peery, who donated the cliffs to the Access Fund in 1994. The event will celebrate 20 years of Access Fund ownership and officially present Golden Cliffs to Jefferson County Open Space.
Climb the crack up the dihedral with the clean right side face and large horizontal slash 2/3 of the way up. Solid finger and hand jams with some nice jugs as a break are throughout the climb. The layback move above the slash is the crux move.
It is #8 in the photo to the right =>
Some slings for the TR is nice, otherwise bring mid-size cams for trad lead.
For a N Table climb (i.e. short), I really like this one. A nice break from the face climbs. I found one section above the slash both trickier and more difficult to protect than I anticipated from the ground and ended up using a small Alien in a crack on the left face. A small nut would also work.
Whoever put the two anchor bolts in, thanks. This is a fun climb at an established toprope crag, so it should definitely have a solid anchor. This makes it much safer for the newbies who don't have the experience/gear. I may despise bolts near perfectly protectable cracks, but I never shun a solid set of belay/rap anchors. . .
The TR anchors are in a completely disconnected block about twice the size of a microwave sitting on and slighly overhanging the rim. It looks like someone could crow-bar the thing off without too much difficulty.
By Matt Gates From: Pinewood Springs, CO Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Great climb, but I second the comment about the anchors in the detached block. I appreciate the anchors, but shouldn't they be on the opposite face which appears to be solid rock?
By rena brand From: Littleton, CO Nov 2, 2007 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c PG13
This is my favorite climb at Golden Cliffs. Gives just enough of a challenge but fun. Lots of ways to test your technique on this climb. You could try to jam the crack or stem. I do it different every time.
This is the most memorable trad climb at the cliffs. I thought it was just strenuous enough, but took gear well. Set an anchor with gear up top. Don't use the anchors on the detached block. We see people using those anchors when we go up there, but it is a bad idea....
By Gilamouse From: Barrre, VT Aug 23, 2010 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Good grief. I found this thing awkward near the top, but overall a really fun route.
This route just eats hand and finger-sized cams. Bring as many as you feel like carrying. Set of BD 0.5-3 will keep you well protected, doubles of #1 is nice. Excellent jamming with nice rests spread throughout. Got awkward for me at the top and after taking my first fall on gear...I may have thrown up.
By Rob Davies UK From: Cheshire, UK Oct 16, 2013 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
Good line - much like gritstone but less aggressive. Awkward move near top, low end HVS 5a in UK terms.
By Andrew Locke From: Louisville, CO Jan 18, 2014 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
5.8+ seems pretty on the money. I struggled the most about 2 moves before the anchor, when the crack flares. There is a good jam deep, but it's a reach for it and awkward to move off of. Protection is great from bottom to top.