possible to lead the initial grunge 5.8pitch form the ground but preferred to rap in from Mars Attacks. Beautiful dihedral with finger locks and liebacking, crux is the endurance + a bit harder near the top, have fun!
located east of Mars Attacks (along rap from MA) and just right of Fear of a Red Planet
easily top roped while descending Mars Attacks, otherwise a triple set of tcu's should get you up.
Pitch 1, Big Corner...actually not a bad pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the second pitch which begins 20 feet a...
View of the route from the trail in.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 17, 2006
This was a fantastic climb that I recommend doing after climbing Mars Attacks. Less than vert corner that will be in the shade in the afternoon, is still tough and cruxes at the top. Various crack widths and some crimps on the face make this corner easier than your pure crack outing. The dirty first pitch didn't look worth doing at all.
From: Lafayette CO
Dec 7, 2008
top roped this yesterday with two 70 meter ropes passing the knot for 180 foot pitch. awesome and varied... first pitch a bit loose and a bit run 5.9 if it were lead. Second would be sweet to lead and would protect well, has a bolt at the wide crux which is nice for directional when tr-ing. bolt anchors at about 120 feet from the ground for this pitch. all sizes in about 60 feet of climbing for pitch 2, bigger than fist to tips...
some big suspect blocks in a couple of spots to try to avoid on pitch one, and one i recall one just before the upper crux on pitch 2... full sun in the afternoon.
the rap anchors at the top of Big Corner are different than the rap for Mars Attacks, 30 feet and diagnally down to climbers left. pulling ropes might be hard if you rap to Big Corner anchor first...
|By Justin York|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 11, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
To add to Bennett's comment, you can rap directly to the top of Big Corner's anchors, TR the bad boy, and pulling the ropes from the bottom was fine. Would be a well-protected lead although the rock is suspect on the first pitch. Second pitch is awesome and varied, with ample rests to eliminate any pump factor.
|By Joe Lee|
From: Las Vegas
Oct 4, 2010
Approach from the top: we had a 70 meter rope!!!!!!!
From the first rappel anchor for Mars Attacks, we reached the second rappel anchor for Mars Attacks with a couple of feet to spare. Make sure you set the middle of the rope at the top and I would also tie stopper knots on the ends. It's a scary rappel because you will not see the second anchors until you are right on top of them. Don't lose control of your rope ends. You will get stranded.
If you want to toprope the second pitch of Big Corner, you have to make a second short rappel down and left to get to the anchors on top of the second pitch of Big Corner. You might need to do a small pendulum to get over.
If you want to lead the second pitch of Big Corner, I think you can rappel directly to the anchors on the top of pitch one for Big Corner. They are on the left side of the dihedral.
From the anchors at the top of pitch one, a single rappel gets you down to the ground.
A standard rack should be fine. Make sure to have at least one fingertip size piece. I carry two. I would also bring one fist piece and one small offwidth piece. I like to sew it up.
Jan 28, 2011
Really nice pitch! I felt the wide pod was the crux. The thin climbing happens right after it but there are great feet and crimps on the face. The first pitch is a bit spicy.
|By Benjamin Smith|
Apr 27, 2011
Awesome addition to Mars Attacks. It protects very well. Bring a #5, extra small pieces, and nuts if you want to sew it up.
|By Ryan Z|
Apr 7, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This is a sweet climb! I had singles of all the hand sizes up to #4, doubles of fingers, and having a green and red C3 are what protected the crux for me. Didn't need the #4 let alone a #5, there is bolt right there. Got the onsight!