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Burrsitus 
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Frodo Lives 
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State of the Artless (The Open Book) 

Big Cliffs 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Nov 13, 2007

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Putting in bolts on lead during FA circa late 1970...

Description 

The main area at Logtown. It is an old quarried area with a good bit of variety. Lots of "drill marks" that make otherwise blank walls climbable. Most of the routes here date from the 1975 to 1985 period. These discriptions are culled from the slim 1987 volume titled A Climbers Guide To The Cliffs Of Logtown, Ohio. Under the FA column, LAC stands for Logtown Alpine Club, a tongue in cheek name coined by the main activists of the day, Shane Cobourn, Eric Vaughn, Sean Cobourn and/or John Varkonda. There are newer routes as well. I will let those pioneers report them.
Please note, all the protection notes will say "trad". Since most of the early activists left the area, many of the climbs have been retro-bolted to suit the tastes and style of a new generation. While I could honestly care less about the bolts, it should be remembered that the routes listed here were all done without them, and no sticky rubber or that white powdery stuff neither....damn young whippersnappers.


Getting There 

From parking area, get on trail which used to be train tracks (we used to hop frieght trains here after sneaking out of scout camp at night) and walk a short distance upstream. Rock is on the right.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Cliffs:
Burrsitus   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
State of the Artless (The Open Book)   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch   
Frodo Lives   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Coordinate Covalent Bonding   5.11-     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   
Browse More Classics in Big Cliffs

Featured Route For Big Cliffs
FA of Frodo Lives  circa 1986

Frodo Lives 5.11a  OH : Logtown : Big Cliffs
Climb the face between the first two drill marks to top....[more]   Browse More Classics in OH