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Big Chief

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Big Chief  


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Location: 39.2496, -120.1907 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 38,525
Administrators: Aron Quiter, John Robinson, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M.Morley on Sep 22, 2012
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Big Chief is in a beautiful location!

Description 

  • ** in progress ***

Getting There 

Late Spring, Summer and early Fall Directions

Exit the central Truckee exit and take a right. Go into the traffic circle, and take your first right, which will wind down to West River Street, where you should take a left. Follow this about 1/2 a mile to Brockway Drive (the sign MAY still say highway 267), where you should go right.

Note that this is NOT the NEW 267, which has an exit off of the freeway. There has been a lot of construction in this area recently, and they've renamed some roads...

Less than a mile later, turn right on Palisades Drive. Go over the hill, and turn right on Silver Fir, and shortly afterwards turn left on Thelin Street.

Within a block, hang a right onto the dirt road just after a gate, which is set back from the road about 30 feet. Drive 5.2 miles on the main road, which is numbered as National Forest Road 06. Stay straight on the road past the turnoff to the ranch (which has a sign stating "horseback riding" or something like that), and you will see a large dirt turn around inside the most prevalent right turn, which actually has a full right turn, and also sharper right turn 30 feet later in case you miss this first one. This leads you about 100 feet into a traffic circle type thing, which is the parking area for the Big Chief area.

Winter and Other Snowy Months Directions

The dirt road to approach Big Chief does not open until the snow clears off it. This is usually in late May. You can just walk the road, but that makes the hike quite long. So instead, there is a trail leading up from Highway 89 directly to Big Chief.

There is a bridge to cross the Truckee River off highway 89 just north of mile marker 16.05. From there, find a trail leading directly up the hill to Big Chief.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

56 Total Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',6],['5.10',24],['5.11',18],['5.12',4],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Chief:
War Path   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Center Wall
Toilet Earth   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Center Wall
War Paint   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Center Wall
Festus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Wall
Route Stealers From Hell   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Center Wall
Half Baked   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   North Wall
Too Light to Wait   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 30'   Center Wall
Mohawk   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Center Wall
Killer Bee   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Center Wall
Flamethrower   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Center Wall
Realm of the Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   South Cave
Pain Killer   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   South Wall
Headrush   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Center Wall
Big Chief Arete   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Center Wall
Pow Wow   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Center Wall
Flying High Again   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Cave
Raindance   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Center Wall
Totally Chawsome   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Center Wall
All Guns Blazing   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Center Wall
Browse More Classics in Big Chief

Featured Route For Big Chief
Urs Moosmuller onsighting "All Guns Blazing"

All Guns Blazing 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CA : Tahoe Vicinity : ... : Center Wall
A very steep overhanging face with long sustained moves through the left side of a large cave. The crux is the first few moves which lead to "easier" 5.12 climbing. Be prepared for a serious pump....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Comments on Big Chief Add Comment
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By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Sep 2, 2003
Note the change in directions to the Big Chief Area, they've been doing a lot of construction in the Truckee area lately it seems.
By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
May 16, 2004
WINTER BIG CHIEF APPROACH BETA:

The dirt road to approach Big Chief does not open until the snow clears off it. This is usually in late May. You can just walk the road, but that makes the hike quite long. So instead, there is a trail leading up from highway 89 directly to Big Chief.

There is a bridge to cross the truckee river off highway 89 just north of mile marker 16.05. From there, find a trail leading directly up the hill to Big Chief.

(Sorry i can't give more details, but i don't know them. We did the long hike. not recommended.)
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Sep 16, 2012
Just to clarify the directions a bit... From making the left on Thelin Street, after about a block turn right on a small road which has a gate about 30' in. Set your odometer because you arrive at a hidden right turn at exactly 5.3 miles. After about 2.5 miles there is a "Y" with a sign on the right "equestrian park" or something like this. You want to stay to the right here even though there is a post on the left fork saying "06-08". You will know you are getting very close when you see some nice looking cliffs a couple hundred yard to the left (east). The somewhat hidden right turn is towards the end of these cliffs. There is no "prevalent" right hand turn that we could find. They are doing quite a bit of grading on the roads and have probably straightened parts of the road...
By 20 kN
From: Hawaii
Jun 9, 2013
Parking area GPS coordinates:

N39.24959
W120.19069
By gen-eva
Aug 12, 2013
LOST: 8 blue BD quickdraws, with a purple paint stripe on the bolt-end 'biners. Someone must have accidentally grabbed them -they weren't with the rest of my gear when I went to leave. There were several people from other groups with the same type of draws, but mine are marked with purple.
If you or anyone you know was climbing Big Chief today (Sunday Aug 11), please check to make sure my draws didn't go home with you. If they did, please PM me or reply to this post and I'll come pick them up.
Thanks!!!
By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 23, 2014
I'm cutting and pasting Aron Quiter's details from the Truckee River Canyon page that apply better to this newer Big Chief page.