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Big Chick Hill

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Gully Wall, The 
Highway Robbery Buttress 
Left End and Left Face 
Lobotomy Buttress 
Main Face 
Oven Wall 
Rabbit Buttress, The 
Tower Buttress and Face 

Big Chick Hill 


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Page Views: 10,550
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Matt Swartz on Apr 21, 2009
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Main face right of Tower Gully. The tree of Ignor...

Description 

As per "Rock Climber's Guide to Clifton Crags" by Jon Tierney

A keen eye will catch a glimpse of the rolling domes of Clifton to the Northeast from I-95 as you approach Bangor. The most striking of these is Big Chick Hill or Big Peaked Mountain as the mapmakers call it. This is Clifton's answer to North Conway's Whitehorse Ledge. As one gets closer, its Tuolumne like appeal is sure to get you psyched. A leisurely twenty minute walk through beech and maple forest brings you near the center of the cliff directly below the summit. To the left are a multitude of newly cleaned sport climbs in the 5.7 to 5.11 range. Several elegant slab lines are to the right including Overnite Sensation (5.8), Vacationland (5.9) and Maine Line (5.11).
The majority of Big Chick Hill routes are 5.8-5.10 and range from one to three pitches in length. For the moderate leader, My Time (5.6), is highly recommended. Well to the right and slightly downhill is the Oven Wall, your best choice for staying warm on cool days.
Sitting just west of Big Chick is Little Chick Hill. Although the climbing is negligible, there is a cool cave worth checking out if you are looking for a break from cragging. There is a vertical squeeze entrance and a walk-in horizontal entrance. See if you can find them.


Getting There 

From the Route 180 and 9 intersection, follow Route 9 east 4.3 miles. As you ascend a long hill, find a large gravel roadside pull-off on the left (north) side of the road. Park here and from the eastern end of the gravel, scramble around in the woods until you pick up a trail. After twenty minutes of gentle contouring the trail reaches the cliff near the route Vertical Sketchmaster (5.10b). To the left are several excellent seventy to ninety food sport climbs. To reach the Maine Face, traverse to the right along the cliff base.


28 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',6],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Chick Hill:
My Time   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 175'   Main Face
Buteo and the Beast   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Left End and Left Face
Overnite Sensation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   Main Face
Black Beauty   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   Left End and Left Face
Son of a Birch   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Tower Buttress and Face
Browse More Classics in Big Chick Hill

Featured Route For Big Chick Hill
a better shot of the starting overhang

Son of a Birch 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  ME : Clifton Crags : ... : Tower Buttress and Face
This striking crack is found on the right side of the buttress.It begins with a over hanging left leaning crack, that becomes a right trending finger crack once you've hucked the overhang.Takes gear like a champ, and is super fun. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in ME

Photos of Big Chick Hill Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at first belay of My Time.  Ben's Balls climbs the corner on the left.   An unknown bolted route heads directly up through an area of fractured rock.   Sea of Knobs climbs out of the slight featured scoop on the left.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at first belay of My Time. Ben's Balls...
Comments on Big Chick Hill Add Comment
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By Max Lurie
From: Conway, NH
Jun 14, 2010

Watch out for bee's!!



I was climbing "My Time" on June 12th and an entire hive of bee's passed 15' above us while at the top of pitch one. We were extremely lucky that they weren't interested in us at the time. I don't know how often they make that trek, but be EXTREMELY cautious when climbing in that area. The Bee's could be anywhere from the top to the bottom of the face in that area.

Max Lurie

By jim.dangle
May 14, 2013

It's a mystery why more people don't climb here. There is ton of good quality, well-bolted moderates. The pitches are long and the rock is sheer and good quality leading to great exposure for single pitch climbs. Unfortunately these climbs are being reclaimed by the moss and lichen.

The climbing is better than Eagle's Bluff IMHO.

Jim