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Big cam for the Gunks?

Original Post
Emmett Lyman · · Stoneham, MA (Boston burbs) · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 480

Hey all,

I'm still a novice trad leader, and just starting to push through the Gunks 5.6 range. This weekend I led Baby and Wrist for the first time, and found those wide cracks at the P1 cruxes were begging for something much bigger than my BD #3. Am I going to see a lot of this at the Gunks, or are these just a couple of oddball climbs? In other words, should I be on the lookout for a #5 or is it a waste of money beyond those two easy climbs?

Thanks!
Emmett

rogerbenton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 210

i think there are a few routes that you can use the bigger stuff on but for 95% of gunks leads you should be good with a #3 C4 and smaller.

for example, there is decent gear to the right of the wrist OW, as well as just before and after the OW section.

cjdrover · · Watertown, MA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 355

You won't use a #5 very much beyond the two climbs you listed... and as rogerbenton pointed out one can usually engineer a solution without wide cams.

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

Generally, the harder the climbs, the smaller the gear. You'll not find much use for anything bigger than a #3 C4 at the Gunks.

I rarely bother bringing my #3 unless I know I'm doing a route where it's especially useful.

Jeffrey Dunn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 229

I rarely bring a #4 to the cliff, nevermind bring it with me on an onsight lead. Double up in finger size and smaller gear first before buying big cams. As an FYI, you can definitely see from the ground the big cracks on those routes, as well as see that the mountainproject pages all specifically identify those routes as wanting what I will call a "not normal" piece of gear.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

All of the above is good advice. But... there's no denying that it's a blast, once you've got a couple big cams, to charge up the wide cracks (few as they are) that scare the bejeebers out of your friends.

MaraC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2011 · Points: 10

The only other climb I can think of besides Baby and Wrist where a big cam might be useful is Layback. I have a #4 and the only climb I've placed it on is Miss Bailey. Get another pink tricam and you should be fine. :D

Auto-X Fil · · NEPA and Upper Jay, NY · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 50

A number 4 is nice for Layback - if you can place it. There's good pro just below the crack anyway, and I don't fancy getting out of the layback position to slot a big cam.

Emmett Lyman · · Stoneham, MA (Boston burbs) · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 480

Thanks for all the replies, folks! Great news, indeed.

I climbed Layback a while ago and recall that it felt a bit committing, but I don't think I would've paused to get a piece in even if I had one to place. And now that I've pushed through Baby and Wrist without pro (guess I didn't look to the right on Wrist) I've got no worries about doing it again.

Anyhow, I appreciate the beta... mostly because it means I don't need to spend anything. I've got the smaller cracks sorted pretty well (a blue metolius goes everywhere!), though I hear you MaraC... I'd gladly trade my black or blue tricam for another pink. :-)

Emmett Lyman · · Stoneham, MA (Boston burbs) · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 480
JSH wrote:Really, no. Do you have a british accent? If so, I met you halfway up Baby, we were rapping from Easy O.
Wasn't me... it was the last climb of the day, so we were probably on it a little later.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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