| Barks Canyon Wall |
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Big Bruno 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | nicholas bujak on Feb 10, 2010 |
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Nick W. in the crux of the second pitch on Big Bru...
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PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>
In the early '90's the USFS banned all placement of bolts in the Superstition Wilderness. This unfortunately includes replacement of existing bolts. Violating this ban may result in climbing restrictions on this beautiful area. Please think twice and go bolt somewhere else.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Start below a big left facing dihedral to the right of "The Long Lead". Pitch oen climb the 5.8 dihedral. Pitch two is the 5.9. Jam cracks to a steep corner. Then left to a " The long Lead"s pitch two two bolt belay. Pitch three is a chimney 5.7. Pitch four follow the chimney to a squeeze hole to the top belay ledge.
Location Left side of Bark's Canyon Wall. Start below a big left facing dihedral to the right of "The Long Lead".
Protection Trad gear
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1 of Big Bruno from the base.
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BETA PHOTO: Looking down at P1 from the belay ramp.
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BETA PHOTO: Half-way through pitch 1.
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BETA PHOTO: The one bolt at the ledge on top of P1. Belay can...
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BETA PHOTO: Shot of pitch 1 for Big Bruno.
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By Tim Heid
From: Tempe, Az
Apr 21, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Another great route on Bark's Canyon Wall! This one seems less traveled than others and the route could use a few more ascents and it will clean up nicely.
Beta(To add to the description):
Pitch 1: 100' 5.8 Start in a large stem box with twin cracks running up it. Climb upwards using both cracks and pull some fun, steep moves on good jams and jugs. Continue up as the cracks widens and gain a ramp on the left. Belay at 1 solid old bolt and with smaller gear(C4 .5-.75).
Pitch 2: 110' 5.9 The crux pitch. Face climb to a hand crack in the middle of 3 cracks and an OW on the right. Place a large piece and move out left, making the crux moves to get established into the flaring hand crack. Move up for 20' to where the angle eases off and then traverse 15' left to meet up with The Long Lead. Face climb past the right side of the large roof. Clip a old pin and follow cracks to a large sloping ledge. Comfortable belay on 2 solid old bolts.
Pitch 3: 60' 5.6 Go up the chimney on the left. Surmount the boulder on the outside after clipping the webbing around it. Continue up past a few more fun moves to the belay. Belay wherever among the boulders.
Alternate Pitch 3: 90' 5.6 A heady option, but more fun as well. Do the R face climb straight up the arete on the right. Climb past a bolt at 30' to a fixed pin another 40' above that. Traverse out right placing a few medium to large pieces. LB the flake to top.
Descent: Walk straight back and up on 3rd class terrain to a 50' rap (webbing around a chockstone) down into the Mystic Grotto.
Rack: 1x nuts(offsets work wonders), 1x blue MC-Red MC, 2x #.5 C4-#2, 1x C4 #3-#4. (We didn't have a #4 and it was okay, but would've appreciated it for the crux). Lots of single and a few double length slings.
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