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 ADVANCED
Left Arrow
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Dogs go to Heaven, Toby S 
Big Brother S 
Cyber Crime S 
Entrapment S 
Trads into Rads S 
Trinity S 

Big Brother 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 502
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 15, 2008

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Description 

Another excellent technical face climb, Big Brother climbs a devious weakness up the beautiful central face of the Left Arrow. This line offers little straight-down pulling; much of the challenge comes in figuring out how best to sidepull, lieback, undercling and otherwise ooze up the cliff.

Begin by surmounting the slight overhang with interesting, and somewhat spooky protruding crystals and flakes. Once established on the hanging wall, snake along the fractured dyke, surmounting a small roof with little difficulty. Just before the end, the dyke vanishes, and the cliff face becomes more monolithic. The crux comes surmounting a small roof just before the anchor, with balancey moves on small holds.


Location 

The next line right (S) of the Cyber Crime/Entrapment start. Also the first line of bolts right of the belay bolt on the large ledge at the base of the Left Arrow.


Protection 

Bolts to 2 BA.



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