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Big bro good or bad?

Original Post
Justin S · · Plattsburgh, NY · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120

What's everyone's experience with big bros? Waste of time and money, or are they worth it?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Big cams are much preferred, but there comes a point where you need something bigger, and BB are cheaper and more widely available than Valley Giants.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Depends on what you are climbing. If you climb only hand-cracks; not worth it. If you're going to be climbing wide stuff, where only those will protect... well... do you want to protect your climb, or just run it out?

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

easy solution: don't climb awful-width
then you won't even need them

Justin S · · Plattsburgh, NY · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120

Thanks guys I figured as much. I was going to get a couple Valley Giants but the wait is pretty long. And offwidths are my favorite climbs Eli just looking to go bigger.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

I have all 4 BB's. I have climbed above all. I have fallen on none of them. That said, thoughts:
They rack well for the size they protect
relatively light
relatively cheap (for the size they protect

Difficult to place (compared to cams
Can't walk them with you
If not placed well....well, umm...
don't work in flares
Not fool proof, and only fools climb OW, right?

Have a partner who ordered valley giants in May....still waiting.
$.02

Justin S · · Plattsburgh, NY · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 120

I guess fools and those who don't feel the pain of normal cracks hurts enough. I'll check out the big bros I guess.

dahigdon · · phoenix, Az · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 220

big bros are awesome if your into that kinda stuff..

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Justin. S wrote:And offwidths are my favorite climbs Eli just looking to go bigger.
Perhaps you should seek professional counseling?
Brandon Gottung · · CO Western Slope · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,613

I consider Big Bros (blue and green) mandatory kit in Zion and also quite useful in the Wingate of Moab and the creek (and Liming, China). In sandstone, they are generally quick to place and often times bomber. If they don't seat quickly, it's probably just a bad placement no matter how much you fusss with them. They work well on roofs as a rope guide also and help protect big cams from the rope. In Vedauwoo, I've had worse luck because the cracks flare so much.

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95

Friends don't let friends climb awful widths

Brandon Gottung · · CO Western Slope · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,613

Frank - good luck finding a route in Zion that's 4 pitches or longer without some wideness. Embrace what the rock gives you! With that perspective, you'll be missing out on many classic routes. How about Astroman . . .

frank minunni · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined May 2011 · Points: 95

Just kidding. Really. Just kidding.

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525
Marc801 wrote: Perhaps you should seek professional counseling?
frank minunni wrote:Friends don't let friends climb awful widths
Then again, I can't really speak because I have a fetish too. Finger cracks...mmmm
William Kramer · · Kemmerer, WY · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 935

I have a blue and a green, got them specifically for Vedauwoo. Setting them is a little different, but once you do it a few times and get the gist of it, you can set them pretty quick. Not as quick as the big cams, but weigh a lot less, those 2 BB are easier to pack around than just one of the big cams. Great tool to add to your OW arsenal.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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