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(uu) Easy's Playhouse
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Big Boss Man 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 1,170
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on Oct 18, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Skipping bolts on a run to the anchor

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2015 - Several Areas MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The second easiest route in the playhouse. Begin on stack of rocks to good incut holds. Follow up a series of goods jugs to an interesting cross move. Clip the 3rd bolt and one 5.10 await you and your redpoint attempt.
Recently (Oct 2005) the first bolt on this line blew out. However, the second can be stick clipped.

Location 

First route to the left of the 11d

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt rap anchor


Photos of Big Boss Man Slideshow Add Photo
Killin the sequence up above the crux.  freesoloph...
Killin the sequence up above the crux. freesoloph...

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By mark d
Oct 19, 2006

"This beginning sequence goes at V10 and brings the full route to 13d/14a."

where did you get this information from?
By Corey McCarthy
From: Redmond, OR
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

As mentioned in the description the original first bolt is gone. What is now the first bolt is extremely loose and probably suspect. Its possible to clip the second bolt before you get to the business or just stick clip it. Either way I would be wary of falling on the first.
By jbrown2
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 11, 2011
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Not sure if this is a 12c or not. It is very diffrent from other things at smith yet it is very physical. The traverse in saps soe energy. I guess it all depends where you start. Id say a good solid mid twelve.
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

not quite sure why this gets the same rating as straight outta madras in the book. MUCH easier. Also the book mentions a 12- crux on the traverse in from the right which seems incorrect. pretty much super steep huge jugs to a v4/5 move then more super steep huge jugs. Also, the first bolt is about halfway out of the rock!
By Jon Rhoderick
Apr 24, 2015

The first two bolts are now out of the rock, making the crux go on only one bolt. This is frustrating because it pulls the belayer into the climber for a possibly injurious fall. No way its 12c, I assumed it was 12a and that seemed about right.
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