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Big Bend Butte is the mesa immediately left of Dolomite Spire and the Lighthouse Tower, when viewed from the road. There are quite a few routes on the formation, the best of which are the Jay Smith beauties Infrared (5.12-) and Clearlight (5.11+ R).
Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Head along the base of Lighthouse and Dolomite to the Butte.
2 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Butte:
Clearlight 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 450'
Infrared 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Featured Route For Big Bend Butte
Infrared 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a UT : Moab Area : ... : Big Bend Butte
An overlooked gem of a tower route! When looking up at the Butte from the road, three splitters are visible on the right side of the buttress. The thin, thin one on the left is Clearlight. The obvious one in the middle (a 6-8" horror) is Dolomite Wall, and the rightmost one is Infrared.P1: Begin in the first crack system left of the corner formed by Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire. It is a stemming slot up broken rock and roofs to a wide-hands crack. Belay at bolts. 5.10.P2: Two ways to ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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