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Big Bend Butte

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Clearlight T 
Infrared T 

Big Bend Butte  


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2003
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Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire from the wall ab...

Description 

Big Bend Butte is the mesa immediately left of Dolomite Spire and the Lighthouse Tower, when viewed from the road. There are quite a few routes on the formation, the best of which are the Jay Smith beauties Infrared (5.12-) and Clearlight (5.11+ R).

Getting There 

Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Head along the base of Lighthouse and Dolomite to the Butte.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.2 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Butte:
Clearlight   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   
Infrared   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Big Bend Butte

Featured Route For Big Bend Butte
Clearlight 5.11 PG13***

Clearlight 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Big Bend Butte
An unsung classic. Pitch 1- 5.10 climbing with a little bit of everything thrown in. Loose and silty in places but really engaging, worthy climbing that ends at Metolius rap hangers at a nice stance. (120 ft) Pitch 2- a wild traverse left(about 40 ft)from the belay past a couple of excellent bolts, with a few natural gear placements as well... when you reach the off-fingers crack(the route's crux), climb on up. This pitch also ends at some nice steel anchors- 5.11 PG-13(70-ish feet). Pitch 3- Th...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Big Bend Butte Slideshow Add Photo
The route shown by the blue arrows might be a higher quality way to access pitch 4 and 5's stellar OW on 'Dolomite Wall'.
BETA PHOTO: The route shown by the blue arrows might be a high...

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