Big Bend Butte is the mesa immediately left of Dolomite Spire and the Lighthouse Tower, when viewed from the road. There are quite a few routes on the formation, the best of which are the Jay Smith beauties Infrared (5.12-) and Clearlight (5.11+ R).
Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Head along the base of Lighthouse and Dolomite to the Butte.
Browse More Classics in Big Bend Butte
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Butte:
Clearlight 5.11 PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III
Infrared 5.12- Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet
Featured Route For Big Bend Butte
Clearlight 5.11 PG13 UT : Moab Area : ... : Big Bend Butte
An unsung classic. Pitch 1- 5.10 climbing with a little bit of everything thrown in. Loose and silty in places but really engaging, worthy climbing that ends at Metolius rap hangers at a nice stance. (120 ft) Pitch 2- a wild traverse left(about 40 ft)from the belay past a couple of excellent bolts, with a few natural gear placements as well... when you reach the off-fingers crack(the route's crux), climb on up. This pitch also ends at some nice steel anchors- 5.11 PG-13(70-ish feet). Pitch 3- Th...[more] Browse More Classics in UT