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Big Bend Bouldering Area

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Army of Darkness Boulder 
Black Box, The 
Black Top Boulder 
Chaos Boulder 
Corbin Boulder 
Flat Top Boulder 
Hidden Crack Boulder, The 
Hueco Traverse Boulder, The 
Orange Peel Boulder 
Punisher Boulder, The 
Sand Traverse Boulder (AKA The Mushroom Boulder), The 
Scoopula Boulder, The 
Split Decision 
Trail Boulder 
Various Areas 
Wash Boulder, The 
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Big Bend Bouldering Area  

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Location: 38.65078, -109.48395 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: ben jammin on May 12, 2002
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Kris on unknown problem, block box boulder???

The Word 

When it comes to quality and quantity, in such a small area, it's hard to beat Big Bend. Add the convenience of beautiful riverside camping, zero approach and a dizzying array of other things to do (I hear there's crack climbing), you'll be missing out if you skip over Moab on your next road trip. The best season is October through March but bouldering can be had year round. Be cautioned, however, summers in the desert can be as hot as sin and although winters are generally mild, you'll want to check the forecast as storms do roll through. If you find yourself freezing in Joe's Valley odds are good it will be sunny with crisp temps at Big Bend.

The climbing is generally skin friendly, with great landings and with a few notable exceptions aren't toooo highball. You can certainly have a great time on your own with a single pad. With grades from V0 to V-hard there is truly something for everyone. With that, no Big Bend description is complete without mentioning the grades. Big Bend was established by legends such as John Sherman, Dan Osman and Tom Gilge with local hardmen Noah Bigwood and Eric Decaria putting up some of the hardest test pieces. Raised in a strict local ethic you won't be seeing many of these problems being downgraded, to say the least. This is best exemplified by Circus Trick, probably the hardest V4 on the planet. I have seen many a hardmen and women reduced to tears (literally!) on this stout area test piece. Many of the area's V0's and V1's will feel hard for the grade.

The rock is Wingate Sandstone which can and will break. DO NOT CLIMB ON WET SANDSTONE! Sandstone is very porous and will break much easier when wet. Please allow at least 24 hours to dry and the general rule of thumb is if the ground is wet, the rock is wet. Also, if exploring for new boulders please be careful not to step on Cryptobiotic Soil; don't bust the crust yo!

Please be respectful of the desert, if you have any questions the people at Pagan Mountaineering in Moab usually will have an answer for you.

Getting There 

Heading North out of Moab take Hwy 128 just before you hit the Colorado River. Follow 'River Road' 8.1 miles to a pull off on the right after the Big Bend Campground. It's hard to miss these boulders as they are about 20 feet from the road and an abundance of chalk can easily be seen as you drive past.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

73 Total Routes

['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',26],['2 Stars',28],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Bouldering Area:
Leftover Lover   V0 4     Boulder   Flat Top Boulder
Center Start   V1 5     Boulder   The Black Box
Mr. Trujillo's Big Day   V2- 5+     Boulder, 12'   Flat Top Boulder
Slots of Fun   V2 5+     Boulder   The Black Box
The Pregnancy Arete   V2+ 5+     Boulder   Flat Top Boulder
Rampage   V3 6A     Boulder, 18'   Chaos Boulder
Arete Left Side   V3 6A     Boulder   The Black Box
Arete Right Side   V3 6A     Boulder   The Black Box
Silly Wabbit   V3+ 6A+     Boulder   Flat Top Boulder
Washed Up   V4 6B     Boulder   The Wash Boulder
Brown Power   V4 6B     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Black Top Boulder
Circus Trick   V4 6B     Boulder   Chaos Boulder
Block Party   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Black Top Boulder
Basketball Diaries   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Army of Darkness Boulder
Circus Trick Right   V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Chaos Boulder
The Grim Reacher   V5 6C     Boulder, 25'   Chaos Boulder
Army of Darkness    V5 6C     Boulder, 15'   Army of Darkness Boulder
Blankety Blank   V6-7 7A+     Boulder, 10'   The Punisher Boulder
Chaos   V8 7B     Boulder, 25'   Chaos Boulder
Hell Belly   V10-11 8A     Boulder   Chaos Boulder
Browse More Classics in Big Bend Bouldering Area

Featured Route For Big Bend Bouldering Area
Ready for the throw, on the V8 version.

Phantom Fighter V11 8A  UT : Moab Area : ... : Chaos Boulder
This route is to the right of Circus Trick and goes up obvious sloping edges on the overhanging black streak. Sit start with a left hand crimp and a right hand on a sharp, tiny pocket/edge. Follow the obvious edges up and either go into the finger lock or make a huge huck for the top. It's V8 if you start standing up....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Big Bend Bouldering Area Slideshow Add Photo
Jason on Rampage, spot by Unger and K2.
Jason on Rampage, spot by Unger and K2.
Guy climbing Split Decision in the Big Bend Area.
Guy climbing Split Decision in the Big Bend Area.
flat top
flat top
BETA PHOTO: bouldering...
Big Bend, Moab
Big Bend, Moab
Block Top Boulder V5 Crimpalicous Me working on it
BETA PHOTO: Block Top Boulder V5 Crimpalicous Me working on it
Big Bend.
Big Bend.
Big Bend My Friend
Big Bend My Friend
Bouldering at Big Bend
Bouldering at Big Bend
These huecos are perfectly suited for a death grip...
These huecos are perfectly suited for a death grip...
Dakota working on something hard at Big Bend.
Dakota working on something hard at Big Bend.
My pregnant "bun head".
My pregnant "bun head".
my buddy bouldering at flat top
my buddy bouldering at flat top
Unknown arete problem in Big Bend.
Unknown arete problem in Big Bend.
Does anyone know the name of this rock and the cli...
Does anyone know the name of this rock and the cli...
Holly Huecos Batman!
Holly Huecos Batman!
More shots from big bend.
More shots from big bend.
Cold day at Big Bend Photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
Cold day at Big Bend Photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
Charles Vernon pullin' down.
Charles Vernon pullin' down.
Geoff on Rampage
Geoff on Rampage
photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
photo by: Tyler Youngwerth
Big Bend Boulders.
BETA PHOTO: Big Bend Boulders.
Camping at Big Bend.  Photo by Jason Urasky
Camping at Big Bend. Photo by Jason Urasky

Show All 26 Photos

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Comments on Big Bend Bouldering Area Add Comment
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By Steven Senger
Jun 7, 2002
This area is fun. One time I came to Moab and spent an entire week in this area alone. There's a silly chimney traverse thing, a couple of crack deals, and a bunch of huecos! I still can't stick that last dyno on Circus Trick... The lonely boulder (a quarter mile down the road towards Moab and back down a short truck trail) has some super-sweet problems on it.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 9, 2002
Anybody know about the hard problems at Big Bend? I think Phantom Fighter-sit is the Klem problem just to the right of circus trick. But where is Hell Belly? Any other hard problems? Moab has a ton of undeveloped hard problems-anyone have recomendations for stuff off the beaten path?
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 18, 2003
Just to the left of Chaos(V8), is a steep pinch problem with terrible heel scums(V11).
By Dave Jackson
Mar 11, 2006
This is the best place to boulder in the world! What an idillic setting, and the quantity of problems is remarkable! Even the sandstone is solid!! I spent an entire afternoon here and that wasn't even enough time to scratch the surface.
By EricW
From: Sandy, Ut
Feb 27, 2008
This place is great for a few days. Tent camping is a across the street. Lots of parking here as well. I think the problems are hard for the grade.Zero approach! Gets sun all day.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 14, 2012
Big thanks to all the people that have been stepping up lately, and adding lots more problems to the database. I've been trying to do my part as well. This place deserves some love!
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