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Little England Wall
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Big Ben 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Season: best in spring or fall
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: Lindajft on Apr 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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bring plenty of runners and extra beaners.

Description 

I think the crux is on the second pitch.
Real nice, smooth climb. Follow crack that runs parallel to corner.
First pitch tops out at tree a little to the left. One bolt belay and webbing are used for hanging belay. May need to replace runner/webbing when up there.

Location 

start of climb is in corner and noticable by the belay area next to small tree.
Rap station is approx 20 ft south of where you top out. Two rope rap. Two bolt rap with noticable webbing.

Protection 

nuts are great for this climb.
small to large cams.
great beginner trad climb.


Photos of Big Ben Slideshow Add Photo
Ann about to start P2 of Big Ben. Beautiful day.
Ann about to start P2 of Big Ben. Beautiful day.
Baggin the summit after climbing Big Ben
Baggin the summit after climbing Big Ben

Comments on Big Ben Add Comment
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By Micah Kurtz
Nov 19, 2012

Does anyone know the current condition of this route? And why the PG13 rating? Thanks.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Nov 19, 2012

PG13 is probably due to the wide section on the second pitch. might be a little intimidating if this is at your limit. if I remember correctly, the rock is a bit crunchy in places as well.

fine line to the top of a cool formation though!
By amy beson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 9, 2012

chossy, but fun. wear your helmet- tons of rockage. never found the bolt at the top of the second pitch and lead had to rap off a natural anchor.
By Shawn C
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 9, 2012

The rap bolt is to the left (facing the cliff) about 15 feet. Chossy indeed.
By Adam-phx-trad
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 21, 2013

definitely has some hazard from loose rock. i nearly beaned my belayer with a smaller piece. if my belayer wasn't in the fall zone i would've cleaned this route up as i went.

next time i will spend more time cleaning it up