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Talking Headwall
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Big Balls 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Season: All year
Page Views: 2,057
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Fun lead, challenging top, great holds. Don't hol...

Description 

This route has a great start and finish. Climb past three bolts to some 4th class terrain. Clip another bolts and follow the left facing crack. Pull the roof and the anchors will be awaiting you. The holds for clipping the anchors aren't the greatest and can be dirty after it rains.

Location 

This climb is at the end of the ramp, to the right of Leading Should Feel This Way. Look for three bolts that are closely placed, to the left of a blocky chimney. Tough to clean when being lowered, may be better for someone to clean on second.


Protection 

6 bolts to ring anchors. It is possible to place a piece of pro in the 4th class if you are not comfortable on the terrain.


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By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 22, 2011

The roof is really fun. All the holds are there for good clipping. From the last bolt keep your hands going right for better holds. If you try to go straight up you'll be struggling. Cheater tree at top to grab to clip anchors from if your about to bail.
By J. Williamson
From: Virginia
Dec 14, 2011

This route is 5.9......maybe 5.10 on a high gravity day. Bottom half is harder than the roof, all you have to do is hold on.
By RossK
From: Washington, D.C.
Apr 8, 2014

The "cheater tree" came down this winter and was thrown over the edge 4/5/14 so no one would hang on it and fall with it.