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Riding Hood Wall
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Big Bad Wolf S 
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Physical Graffiti T 
Riding Hood T 

Big Bad Wolf 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: L. Gallia, E. Allen, D. Young
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 19,066
Submitted By: D Young on Oct 22, 2011

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Leading the first pitch at Big Bad Wolf!

Big Bad Wolf 

Big Bad Wolf is a 4 pitch sport route 30 ft left of Physical Graffiti. Scramble up the gully that leads to Riding Hood for about 20 ft. The route starts on a flat sloping rock. All bolt hangers are painted brown.

P1 5.9, 8 bs, 70 ft, for the most part is a jug haul on vertical desert varnish, 2 chained anchors.
P2 5.8, 8 bs, 80 ft, Red Rock slab climbing with a thin crux midway, 2 chained anchors.
P3 5.8, 8 bs, 70 ft, the slab soon turns vertical with more large holds to the finish, 2 chained anchors.
P4 - 5.0, 2 b's w 2 bolt anchor, no rappel rings, 30 ft, mini-pitchette for those wanting to walk off climbers left and safely get to the walk off ledge. Look up and right for the 1st bolt. Pitch is shaped like a crescent moon up and right. Anchor is directly above P3 chains.

Pitches 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 can be combined with a 60m rope and 17 draws, or combine all 3 pitches with a 70m rope and 26 draws.

Descent Options:

Preferred Descent: Walk off climbers left: climb P4 to arrive at the walk-off ledge, being very careful with all of the loose rock on the ledges. Continue south east (climbers left) until you see the gully with the tree in it and descend.

Rappel the route:
- 3 rappels with a single 60m rope.
- 2 raps with 2 60m ropes, or
- a single rap with 2 70m ropes and watch your ropes get stuck on features.


Or scramble right to the standard Phys Graf rappel and gully walk off.


Photos of Big Bad Wolf Slideshow Add Photo
Photo by Dan Young
BETA PHOTO: Photo by Dan Young
3rd pitch starts with some slap and then moves to some great featured climbing.
3rd pitch starts with some slap and then moves to ...
Lynda G. leading P2
Lynda G. leading P2
Matt following up the steep headwall on P3.
Matt following up the steep headwall on P3.
Lynda G. at the hanging P2 belay
Lynda G. at the hanging P2 belay
Big Bad Wolf P1
Big Bad Wolf P1
Looking up at P3
Looking up at P3
Looking down from the middle of the 3rd pitch.  Physical graffiti is on the left.
Looking down from the middle of the 3rd pitch. Ph...
Starting the 1st pitch.
Starting the 1st pitch.
Ali and I at the top of Big Bad Wolf
Ali and I at the top of Big Bad Wolf
Wes following pitch 1 of Big Bad Wolf. Dick belaying at the 1st anchors.
Wes following pitch 1 of Big Bad Wolf. Dick belayi...
View from the top of pitch 3.
View from the top of pitch 3.
View from the 1st belay station
View from the 1st belay station
Matt coming up the fun sloper finish on P3 just above the headwall.
Matt coming up the fun sloper finish on P3 just ab...
Third pitch
Third pitch
The start
The start
Mr. D leading pitch 2.
Mr. D leading pitch 2.
View while belaying at the end of third pitch.
View while belaying at the end of third pitch.
Super fun route!
Super fun route!
View from the top
View from the top
View at the top of the route above the 3rd pitch.
View at the top of the route above the 3rd pitch.
Vegas in the distance
Vegas in the distance
Big Bad Wolf, pitch 3
BETA PHOTO: Big Bad Wolf, pitch 3

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2014
By slacker
From: North Conway NH
Oct 23, 2011

Climbed this new route today. Once the second pitch cleans up it will be a very nice climb. The route can be rapelled with one 60. A big thanks to those who put in the time money and effort!!!
By Mostafa
From: Alameda
Oct 25, 2011

This was my first multipitch route ever and it was awesome! Thank you for creating!
By Sue S
From: Henderson, NV
Oct 30, 2011

Nice climb. :) Glad to see more moderate multi-pitch sport routes being developed in Red Rock. Beware of fragile flakes.

Beta from Dan: 3 pitches, 8 bolts per pitch with chain anchors. Each pitch is roughly 75 ft. All bolts and chains are painted brown. 3 raps with 1 60m rope, 2 raps with 2 60m ropes, 1 rap with 2 70m ropes. Or walk off climbers left or descend climbers right using the Phys Graf rap and gully route. It is possible to combine pitches 1 & 2 or pitches 2 & 3 with a 60m rope. The long pitch would require 17 draws. It is possible to combine all pitches with a 70m rope and would require 26 draws. Start is 30 ft left of Physical Graffiti just up the hill side. Start at a sloping flat rock.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Oct 30, 2011

This route will likely get harder as holds break off.

josh
By Lynda Gallia
From: Las Vegas
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very well protected route.. fantastic to have more sport multi pitches in the moderate category... I did not break any holds but be aware especially on the first pitch. Rappel with one 60M to each belay station. Second pitch is a hanging belay... The route should be rated 5.9
By Eric-D
From: Las Vegas, nv
Nov 9, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Pretty good route with a variety of climbing; jugs, crimps, slab. It may get a little harder as hold break off but the holds that are suspect are in areas with an abundance of holds so it shouldn't change the route much.

Will be a great place to teach multipitch skills (much better than Mans Best Friend).
By Joe Cayer
From: Mesa, Az
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very fun climbing! Well bolted and there's a little something for everyone!
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 26, 2011

Very nice addition to Red Rocks & especially nice to have it right next to Physical Graffiti. Thanks for putting this up. We really enjoyed it. It was my friend Rich's first multi-pitch. This is a great route for a first multi-pitch.
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 27, 2011

I've heard this is officially the busiest route in RR for the season. Having done the route, I can see why. Close to the road, mellow approach, right beside a well-known classic, bolted closely enough for the choss factor not to be a big issue.

Having climbed it, I think that the above qualities and its relative uniqueness in the area make it worthwhile jaunt. I enjoyed the second pitch much more than the others, but think that the number of bolts is the major attraction here; the next step after Man's Best Friend, for many indoor hydroponic tomatoes/gym "climbers".

I think Dan put up a pretty decent route that is a sign of the times. It avoids natural features and protection, ledges, and goes for the steep rock and cleanest rappel. I enjoyed my sunny day amongst the tourists (who were all cool and left no trash), but can't help thinking that someone without Dan's mileage and experience might try to clone this "experience" on another cliff and really botch it up. Looking forward to the next one, though, brother. Well done.
By Jason Neve
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 3, 2012

Thanks to everyone who put this up. Climbed it today and had a blast, really fun route. One of my first leads after a nasty fall and this route was perfect to get the head back in the game. Still a little loose stuff but nothing bad.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 18, 2012

Great route, thanks for putting it up.
By ClimbPHX.com
From: Mesa AZ
Feb 5, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great climb! Starts with great vert'ical right off the deck with great bolting to support you on some rather unique moves. The slab is thin but the sandstone is so adhesive so its great! Great views, great rock!
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 17, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

An absolute gem of a route, Dan- my compliments!

Strong leaders can do this with fewer draws than there are bolts- it's easy to backclean and skip bolts and still have it feel safe. We did it in two pitches with 10 draws and it was casual.

Super fun, thanks for the newer bolted anchor, it makes the setup for the walk off casual. Definitely don't rappel this thing, it'll eat you ropes alive. The walk off is relaxed and a nice end to the day.
By Jay Holland
From: Henderson, NV
Mar 26, 2012

Great climb. First and third pitches were better than the second. Not a fan of the hanging belay, could have been a few feet higher of lower and been more comfotable. But if it was a perfect route more people would be there. This is a great one to bring the out of towners to when they arrive in the afternoon and want to get a quick red rock climb in! Be careful rapping down slowly so we dont' abuse the areas that are fragile.
By m2ikem
From: Sandpoint, ID
Apr 5, 2012

Excellent climb! The first pitch is a solid 5.9, good holds but challenging in all the right places. The upper two pitches are easier like the 5.8 rating says, but still give you a thrill a few times! On the rappel we were able to reach the side gully from the seconds belay chains... saved the extra rope switcheroo.
By Vince Neil
Apr 30, 2012

There was a line up for this route while physical grafitti was free and clear....nice job Dan. We rapped off with no stuck-rope issues but had to pay very close attention not to knock any choss off...so if waiting to climb this route it's a good idea to get out of the line of fire as it is still shedding significant amounts of loose rock.
By Dan Mathews
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

We did this early Sunday morning before it warmed up or anyone was there. It is a lot of fun and extremely well protected. The first pitch seemed easier than several of the .9's we did later in the day in the Black Corridor. We did 3 single rope (60m) raps and didn't have any issues with snags or breaking off holds.

I could do a climb like this over and over again. Thanks to whomever put it up!
By Jared R
Sep 23, 2012

We climbed this Yesterday, Saturday, Sept. 22, 2012. It was a great route. We combined the first 2 pitches with a 60M and 17-18 draws. The first pitch was steep and fun. The third pitch slab was my favorite and was very enjoyable. Great route! We rapped the route with a 60M rope in 3 rappels. Much better and easier than the walk off descent.
By Jrd311
Nov 16, 2012

a little more slabby in the middle of the route than I expected. Great for new leaders the bolts are comfortably spaced and the anchors are pretty comfy. Do physical graphiti to the right of this route(Trad)it was allot of fun.
By Canon
Dec 8, 2012

Definitely steep on the first pitch. Next two pitches are pretty easy. You can rap from the P2 anchors to the gully just left of the beginning of the route with a 70m rope no problem.
By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

CAUTION: DANGEROUS ROCK FALL CONDITIONS

My wife and I climbed this on 4/4/13 and had a large rock (100+lbs) slide off at us.

I was anchored into P3 belaying my wife's top out on P4. She had just anchored into P4 when the chossy ledge to the left of P4's route decided to let a couple of the large slabs of rocks slide. The large slabs began to slide down directly at me on the P3 anchors, luckily very slowly. I was able to halt the large piece by pressing my hands and knee down on it but doing so broke it into two pieces. The larger of the two slid off to my left and fell/bounced down striking the angled boulder near the start of Big Bad Wolf and Physical Graffiti - there's a pretty good scar on the boulder now. The smaller of the two piece (45 lbs) ended up in my lap resting on my slings and knee. I checked below for others, yelled rock and tossed the remaining piece off to get it off me. A few other pieces came loose and slid half way down the slope as well. I was able to move many back up to the ledge but a few remain in precarious places.

I'm not sure if this is the proper place to put this but if you're gonna climb this area please be aware of this situation, wear a helmet and watch out for rock fall.

It might be a good idea for some intrepid party to climb this thing early in the morning and kick as much of the loose trundle down as possible.
By Crotch Robbins
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

First off, this is a super fun route and I had a blast on it. Pitches 1, 2 and 3 are type 1 to the max.

There is a non-trivial amount of loose rock just above the P3 anchors in a cave-like formation below the P4 anchors. When climbing P4, the bolt out right keeps the rope and climber away from the looseness, but if you rap from the P4 anchors, the rope pull will put everyone below in jeopardy. I recommend walking off if you must do the 4th pitch. Do not rap from the final anchor. If you want to rap, skip the last pitch.

I'd suggest moving the P4 anchors up to the top of the formation to a location where nobody would consider rapping from them. As it is, rapping and then pulling ropes from the 4th pitch anchor is an accident waiting to happen.
By Patrick R. M.
From: Henderson, Nevada
Jul 18, 2013

Super featured first pitch, slabbed out second pitch (crux), sweet juggy 3rd pitch. Scrambly approach, and bring comfortable shoes for the hanging belays!
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Oct 24, 2013

Clocked my PR TRS (personal record top rope solo) for all 3 pitches in 11 mins 6 secs. Previous PR was 13:27. Yes, I was kind of bored that day...
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 14, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A BIG THANKS to whomever spraypainted the bolts directly on the rock! Not placing blame on the FA or a different party but man that looks like shit, and shit like that is almost wose then not painting the bolts at all!

o yeah...P2 you can plug small gear in the beautiful crack and skip most of those clippy things.
By The Farley
Nov 19, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

1). Agree that spray paint on the rock looks bad. Detracts from the quality of the climb.

2). Be conscious of loose rock up top.

3). Thanks for the hard work putting this up. Fun route.
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 5, 2014

Gaar and John Farley, all paint has been removed from the rock around all bolts. Please edit or remove your comment regarding paint on the rock. Thanks!
By D Young
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 18, 2014

Thanks to the two climbers who were kind enough to let my client and I go ahead of them today. I hope you found the beer money I put in your shoes :-)
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 14, 2014

Get on this route before published in ink. As it is, the line can be incredible to get on especially Physical Graffiti right next door.

This is a very fine route with lots of bolts and easy belays. So much so, it likely will become a beginners route or perhaps even guide training for multi-pitch climbing. Bolt protected, bolted & chained belays all of which are seen from the ground make for an ideal set up for those just learning systems, hanging belays, rope management, calls and even rappelling. As a result, be prepared to wait a long time to get on this route and the ascents of others can be an absolute crawl.

As previously noted you can easily link 1 & 2 or 2 & 3 with a single 60 meter rope. Our selection was to wait for enough clearance above then link 1 & 2 which had minimal or no rope drag. Our 2+ hour wait paid off and was able to rap the route vs. taking the walk off. Again noting what a great instructional route it is as you can see the chains below making the raps clear to see and safe (minus the one to the ground which is blind). Cautious pulls to avoid getting hung up worked just fine.

Clean, aesthetic and great valley views with great aspect allowing sun or shade options. Nice line...right there in plain view all these years.
By tyler.s
From: Fayetteville, Arkansas
Mar 30, 2014

I climbed this a few days ago, and had a blast. It was my second ever multi-pitch and it was enjoyable for being well protected and having good belays. The one issue my party ran into was finding the p4 anchors. I expected them to be over to the left, seeing as how the walk off is left, but they were further over to the right. A note about where to find these bolts would have been nice.
By Likeasummerthursday
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Sep 24, 2014

Thought the crux was the first 20 feet of vertical jug-hauling. Loved the friction climbing on p2. Easier than most 5.9s out here.
By xscreamskier24
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

It was a great climb! Great intro for anyone learning to lead, or wanting to try multi-pitch. First pitch was probably more like a 5.8. The second and third pitches are slabby, but you have great foot holds. Some info said it was 4 pitches, but we put the third pitch and the last pitch...or pitchette? ( only two bolts). The walk off is a mother; bring your sandals. Some holds seemed hollow, but nothing wanted to break off. Maybe the loosest holds have been ripped off already. Woohoo!