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Big Bad Love 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Chris Grijalva
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2007

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Description 

This beauty features the best stone on the Shady Side. Unfortunately this line is also the only drainage for a significantly sized canyon above. As such, dirt, leaves, rocks and water stream down the route every time it rains, which is rare, but, due to the sparsity of climbers, happens frequently enough to ensure that you will need to clean this route before you attempt a redpoint. The crux is at the 3rd bolt, so I recommend you head up from the ground and see how it goes before you commit to the several hours it will take to brush down the entire route. If you can manage the extremely powerful crux, nothing above the lip of the overhanging will slow you down.

In addition to the water hazard, this route is often used by the local Search and Rescue squad for various training exercises, and features a convenient rap anchor at the cliff top. For this reason, you might thing twice about fixing your draws for an extended period of time.

The route begins with long, powerful moves on a slightly leftward traverse, to a sick-hard move at the 2nd bolt. From here, a commiting dyno leads to a good jug. At the 4th bolt, a technical rock-over gains the headwall, followed by a left-ward traverse to an easy stance. More trivial moves lead to a final technical boulder problem on insecure slopers just below the anchor.

Location 

Fifth route from the left, up a distinct brown streak.

Protection 

Bolts. Stick Clip mandatory


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