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Big Arete

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchors Away S 
Bet Ya Can't Eat Just One TR 
Hunger Strike TR 
Lloyd Would Have Liked It S 
Man Overboard S 

Big Arete  


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Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Kristi D on May 4, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: "Big Arete" from trail's perspective. R...

Description 

This area is 200 ft. past Devil in the White House. You can see the Arete with Man Overboard and Anchors Away on the large, white quartzite block 80 ft. above the trail. Area is just right of the Little Amphitheater area (which is usually wet).

There are eight routes in this area ranging from 5.6-5.11, toprope and lead.

Getting There 

Approach is 13 minutes from the Three Bears Gully. Turn to your left at the bottom of the gully.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.4 miles from here

5 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Arete:
Lloyd Would Have Liked It   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Man Overboard   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Big Arete

Featured Route For Big Arete
Man Overboard follows the blue line.  (Red line is "Smooth Sailing")

Man Overboard 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  NC : Pilot Mountain : Big Arete
Follow 2 bolts on the left side of the face to an upper ledge. Pull a small overhang with 2 more bolts and trend right towards a third bolt. It is strongly suggested to place gear in the small horizontal crack before moving to the anchors (Crux). ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Big Arete Slideshow Add Photo
The first few quickdraws at the bottom of "Anchors Away" and "Lloyd Would Have Liked It".
BETA PHOTO: The first few quickdraws at the bottom of "An...

Comments on Big Arete Add Comment
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By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Mar 15, 2012
Big Arete is between the golden wall of 'Devil in the White House' and the very high wall near and below the actual parking lot. To see the namesake, you would have to make an effort to look directly overhead, where it looms like a ship's prow, lending the nautical theme for names for those Sport routes: 'Mutiny on the Bounty', 'Man Overboard', and 'Anchors Away' (which is not misspelled). The Kelley guide listed others on the main cliff, but none have anchors and are not climbed. The main three share one set of two cold shuts with a new ring, located atop 'Man Overboard' which is the most popular one. They can be reached directly from the very popular overlook, so top-roping is used. Note that Big Gully is closed to all entry, so the walk around via Jomeokee Trail (much shorter than via Three Bears Gully) is a hassle.

To the left is a short, broad buttress you must carefully walk around. Its flat top is accessed via a rough and damp chimney, which is also used to bypass 'Mutiny' to reach the belay base for the upper two main routes. The Kelley guide listed two routes on the buttress, though there is no clear separation, only more or less to right or left, which is also less or more difficulty. Both will lead on Trad gear, and there are two new sets of rim anchors with lower-off chains. Carrying rope and rigging up and down the chimney is not easy or safe.
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By Rockbanned
From: Plattsburgh, Ny
Oct 31, 2013
Pilot is pretty much the cats Meow. Excellent exposure, fun lines. something for everyone at this place. :) carolinaclimbers.org has an excellent climbing guide for this area. I'd recommend downloading it before heading in.