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 ADVANCED
Mosaic Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Cakes T 
Better Red Than Dead T 
Bienvenidos T 
Black Streak T 
Chicken Heads T 
Chicken Shit T 
Clean Green Dream T 
Cryin' in the Rain T 
Dirty Black Nightmare T 
Dirty Diagonal T 
Dung Alley T 
Five Years After T 
Fried Chickens T 
Holthouse to Hell T 
Mama Jugs T 
Ocho Diamentes (Tech-No-Star) S 
Rite of Summer Dreams T 
Seaman Girl T 
Serpent Face T 
Serpentine Crack T 
Summer Dreams T 
Suprise-Suprise T 
Techtonics T,S 
Techweenie S 
To Bolt on Lead or Not to Bolt (TBOL) T 
Unknown (Left of Baby Cakes) T,S 
Unknown (Right of Mama Jugs) T,S 
Walking Dread T 

Bienvenidos 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Holthouse?
Page Views: 1,036
Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 23, 2007

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Perfect rock, perfect weather, great friends: What...

Some rocks in this area are on private property. Property owner requests signed waiver. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Face climb a few moves off the ground to a left-leaning thin hands crack. At the top of this crack, clip a bolt, pull the crux bulge, clip the 2nd bolt. Follow a water groove (5.7R), and don't pass up placing pro in 2 diagonal cracks that cross this groove on your way to the 2-bolt anchor. There are really cool fins and big holds in this upper section, but the runout is 25' so you've still got to keep your focus.

Note that all climbing harder than 5.8 is well protected on this climb, but runout on 5.7. Welcome to TP 5.10s.

Watch out for people who might be about to use the anchors to rappel.

Location 

Toward the right end of Mosaic Rock, at the South/SE corner, behind a pine tree: you can see the left leaning hand crack that begins about 8' up. Soon after this route, the cliff faces more south east than south. It's the next climb left of the Baby Cakes flake.

Rap the route with a 60m rope from the 2-bolt anchor with chains. You could walk off if you wanted to, or if you had a shorter rope.

Protection 

Standard TP rack: 1 set cams to 2", 1 set nuts. 2 bolts protect the crux 5.10 moves. Ends at a 2-bolt anchor.


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By tim naylor
Jan 9, 2012

can go right of bolt over bulge on crimps @ .11b but less awkward?