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Der Freischutz
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bidoigt T 
Drugs S 
Dwarves Are People Too T,TR 
East Face / Der Freischutz T 
Fat Elvis S 
Frankenstein TR 
Free Shot T 
Horn, The S 
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 
North East Gully T 
Reality TR 
Rock and Roll S 
Sidewalk Stroll T,S 
South Ridge T 
Street Hassle S 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter, 1988.
Page Views: 980
Submitted By: Kristo torgersen on Jul 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Aaron Ramras at the chains during golden hour.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


This route is better known as "Sex", thus completeing the trio of "restday favorites". It starts right of the slab below the summit of Der Freischutz and follows 2 bolts into a left-leaning corner to the top. After clipping the first bolt, make 5.9 moves up into the left-facing flake, where a blue Metolius cam can be placed if so desired. Mantel on top of the flake and clip the second bolt. Climb the face up into the crack (10a crux), place a few small wires, and follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Here, a directional wire can be placed in a notch (to protect a second climber) and the leader can down climb right to the anchors. 50 feet. Rappel from anchors.


Bring a blue Metolius TCU, several quickdraws, and a set of small nuts.

Per Aeon Aki: this route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the Drugs chains.

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By Aeon Aki
Oct 12, 2010

This route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the Drugs chains.
By pfwein
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 20, 2014

My gear beta: yellow Mastercam (not blue, but I like 'em tight) after first bolt, then #7HB offset (i.e., a medium-sized nut) and 0.75 Camalot for above 2nd bolt. Braver climbers could probably just clip the 2 bolts and be fine (with an attentive belay), but if you're gonna bring gear, the above seemed good to me.
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