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 ADVANCED
Der Freischutz
Routes Sorted
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Bidoigt T 
Drugs S 
Dwarves Are People Too T,TR 
East Face / Der Freischutz T 
Frankenstein TR 
Free Shot T 
Horn, The S 
HuGGz TR 
Lucy and Devi Go Mousing S 
North East Gully T 
Reality TR 
Rock and Roll S 
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South Ridge T 
Street Hassle S 
Unsorted Routes:

Bidoigt 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter, 1988.
Page Views: 820
Submitted By: Kristo torgersen on Jul 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Aaron Ramras at the chains during golden hour.
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is better known as "Sex", thus completeing the trio of "restday favorites". It starts right of the slab below the summit of Der Freischutz and follows 2 bolts into a left-leaning corner to the top. After clipping the first bolt, make 5.9 moves up into the left-facing flake, where a blue Metolius cam can be placed if so desired. Mantel on top of the flake and clip the second bolt. Climb the face up into the crack (10a crux), place a few small wires, and follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Here, a directional wire can be placed in a notch (to protect a second climber) and the leader can down climb right to the anchors. 50 feet. Rappel from anchors.


Protection 

Bring a blue Metolius TCU, several quickdraws, and a set of small nuts.

Per Aeon Aki: this route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the Drugs chains.



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By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Oct 12, 2010

CONDITION REPORT 

This route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the Drugs chains.

By pfwein
Jan 20, 2014

My gear beta: yellow Mastercam (not blue, but I like 'em tight) after first bolt, then #7HB offset (i.e., a medium-sized nut) and 0.75 Camalot for above 2nd bolt. Braver climbers could probably just clip the 2 bolts and be fine (with an attentive belay), but if you're gonna bring gear, the above seemed good to me.