Bidoigt  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Richard and Joyce Rossiter, 1988. Submitted By:  Kristo torgersen on Jul 8, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Aaron Ramras at the chains during golden hour.

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Description 

This route is better known as "Sex", thus completeing the trio of "restday favorites". It starts right of the slab below the summit of Der Freischutz and follows 2 bolts into a left-leaning corner to the top. After clipping the first bolt, make 5.9 moves up into the left-facing flake, where a blue Metolius cam can be placed if so desired. Mantel on top of the flake and clip the second bolt. Climb the face up into the crack (10a crux), place a few small wires, and follow the crack (5.9) to the top. Here, a directional wire can be placed in a notch (to protect a second climber) and the leader can down climb right to the anchors. 50 feet. Rappel from anchors.

Protection 

Bring a blue Metolius TCU, several quickdraws, and a set of small nuts.

Per Aeon Aki: this route now has its own set of anchors eliminating the need to "down climb" to the Drugs chains.