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82 Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afro Samurai S 
Arms Reduction T,S 
Beyond S 
Block Party T,S 
Crimp Chimp T 
Crusty By Nature S 
Dirty Duo, The T 
Doggfather, The S 
Encryption S 
Enter the Dweezil S 
Kid Charlemagne S 
Little Red Hen S 
Politics of Dancing, The S 
Solarium T,S 
Steppin Razor S 
Team America S 
Truffle Hog T,S 
War on Drugs T,S 
Year of the Dog T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Beyond 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Vuono
Page Views: 661
Submitted By: Colin R on Oct 23, 2011

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Description 

This route sits just left of the Doggfather and yet offers a very different style of climbing. Whereas the Doggfather requires power and control with a V5 crux, Beyond is just sustained crimping with no individual move harder than V3 or V4 but lots of them, one after the other until you are spent. Begin off the ground and do a few techie V1/V2 crimp moves to gain a system of interconnecting rails and flat holds veering slightly left until you have an ok rest. Rest up here, clip and move back right through a reachy sidepull then fire through a wild series of sustained crimps clipping periodically as you go. Eventually you get to a big jug, then a small roof at which point you can rest pretty good before doing a final V2- move just below the chains. Your arms should feel like silly putty on the RP burn.

By the way, at the risk of stirring up yet more grade controversy at this crag/area, I should mention that this route was originally graded 12a by Dave Vuono but I haven't spoken to anyone other than Dave who thinks this is 12a (everyone seems to think it is harder). Personally I feel its slightly harder than the Doggfather but endurace isn't my style so I could be wrong there. I feel 12b/c is fair value but I am open to other suggestions.

Hints: Right off the ground use the microcrack for your left hand only, right hand on rails and crimps. I've seen people try to go both hands straight up the micro-crack feature and ignore the large rail and features to its right. Also up high after you pull over the small roofy feature into the pod, you can get a no-hands rest if you smear your shoulder into the wall and place your feet to the left before firing the last couple 5.10+/V2- moves before the anchor (that is if the huge jugs aren't enough for you).

Location 

Just left of the Doggfather.

Protection 

Bolts


Comments on Beyond Add Comment
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By Derek Doucet
Oct 26, 2011

I'd call it .10+ with that (^) much beta...

Just kidding. Couldn't help myself.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Oct 26, 2011

lol, no worries - I know I am kind of spilling the beans here especially for those who wish to onsight it without beta, but I really dig this route and enjoy describing the movement. I spent about 5 or 6 weekends over a year working on the route and wasted a good 2 or 3 of them using crappy beta. The route can be made much harder by veering off sequence in a couple key spots particularly just after the rest.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
May 8, 2012

I've nudged the grade back to 12b - seems to be what people are saying.
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Aug 11, 2013

Derek, do you feel Beyond is harder or easier than "Who' your Daddy?" which you've also called 12a? Also, you've rated the Doggfather 12b which is to say harder than what you rated Beyond or WYD. If anything the Doggfather is the easiest of the three imho. Just my 2 cents....
By Derek Doucet
Aug 12, 2013

Hey Colin,

I haven't been on any of them recently, but as I recall, Beyond and WYD are so different in style that comparing them is pretty difficult.

Regarding WYD vs.the Doggfather, yes, I think the Doggfather is significantly harder than WYD. IMO, considered as an isolated boulder problem, the Doggfather crux is much more difficult than anything on WYD. It involves more moves and is much more powerful. This perspective could well be because of my personal weaknesses and strengths of course. The WYD crux rewards subtle body positioning and crafty technique, while the Doggfather crux is a straightforward power problem. As I'm a lousy power climber, but do feel like I can finesse my way through lots of things, WYD certainly plays more to my strengths.

Cheers,

Derek
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Aug 13, 2013

Thanks for your feedback Derek.

The more I climb the more I recognize the non-linear nature of the sport and what makes something "difficult". I probably fall into the opposite end of the spectrum from you given my background/foundation in bouldering. The Doggfather allows me a near no-hands rest before what I would call a V5 boulder problem which I will take any day. Beyond, while having no move harder than say V3 or V4 also has a much more sustained crux with what I would only describe as a crappy rest just prior. I found it extremely pumpy and I would likely have rated it 12c if it were something I put up (fully expecting a VT downgrade). Having moved to Canada I can say that many of the crags I've climbed at up here, while by no means would I describe them as soft, are not nearly as difficult as similarly rated routes in VT or the Daks. Last year at Lion's Head I sent two 12c's in the same weekend - no way that would ever happen at Bolton. Hope you are enjoying the summer...

Peace,

Colin