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 ADVANCED
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Rocket In My Pocket T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

Beyond the Fringe 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dan Nguyen, Clint Cummins, 11/1987
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Sirius on Mar 12, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

This is an interesting pitch that sits atop its much more famous cousin, Lunatic Fringe.

From the LF belay stance, step left to a seam that opens into a thin crack. Delicate moves lead past small (but solid) pro until you make your way past the crux sequence. The first ~40 ft of climbing off the belay felt sustained.

Half way up the pitch the nature of the climbing changes and the difficulty tapers off. Cruise up to the ledge above, where you can either rap back to the LF anchor or continue up the excellent Beyond Lunacy.

Location 

The obvious continuation above Lunatic Fringe.

Protection 

Standard rack, emphasis on small to very small pro for crux first half.


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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 12, 2013

It seems as if this pitch may not get repeated often, and as a result there is some lichen and some flexing features to be navigated. Be particularly wary of the thank-god jug about 20 ft off of the belay (the first big feature you get after a bunch of balancey, techy moves on small pro), which flexed a bunch when I grabbed it.

I don't think the pitch deserves an R or even a PG, but protecting the first half is more involved than your standard Yosemite crack climb.

Here's a link to one of the FA'ists description:

stanford.edu/~clint/rep/87nybe...