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East Buttress
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Beyond The Abyss 

YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI British: E10 7c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14d French: 9a Ewbanks: 35 UIAA: XI British: E10 7c [details]
FA: Antoine Savelli
New Route: Yes
Season: year-round
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: Antoine Savelli on Jul 26, 2013
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Grade conversion chart.


This is the first hard route on the Ophir Wall, it has never been seconded. It was put up and freed in 1996.

First pitch: this has a 5a or 5.9 move. It is an average pitch, bring pro or use first pitch of Goldrush, which is much better.

Second pitch: 8c/8c+ or 5.14d/15a. It has a very tricky sequence up high and is sustained for 6 meters. Otherwise, it is quite reasonable.


This is on the Lower East Buttress, Jungle Gym, behind our house. It has a 3 minute approach.


10 clips.

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By charladam
Aug 16, 2013

I would love to see a repeat of this route. If it is actually confirmed as 9a/14d, it would be one of the hardest routes, sport or otherwise, in all of Colorado.