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Matt starting up.
I thought this seemed a bit hard for the grade, but my crimping isn't what I'd like it to be...
Start with your left hand at the top of the left rail and your right on the right slash.
Very aesthetic climbing on gorgeous slashes in the face are what this problem is all about. The holds lend themselves to very tension-filled moves and the crux is right in the middle with a very powerful deadpoint. This is a fine problem in every regard.
Pad the landing well.
It looks like someone has done a sit-start to this brutal problem too. No idea what it's called or how much harder it is though.
Far left side of the main wall.
|By chris schulte|
Jul 27, 2008
I did a sit start to this a couple years ago, it is named prefabricated dreams of constant change.. just kidding- its called beyond life sit start.. I figured its on the harder end of v11/12, and its great..
Sep 2, 2009
One of the greatest boulder problems in America. The start is to be "matched" and crossed on the curved feature (I put matched in quotes because there is a deep incut for the right hand and any flat part of the rail for the left. Starting on the slopey sidepull and the rail is starting one move in. I just thought the poster's description was a bit ambiguous.
I heard a rumor that Dave Graham did the FA?